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Mueller |
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
So I was helping Sandy with his original /6 yesterday , we put new Porterfield pads on his car.
Fronts are easy, however the rear I ended up putting the stock pads back on due to a few reasons: Large diameter pins wouldn't fit into new pads, options: Grind down pins or drill/mill the backing plate for larger diameter? Easy options, just not sure which is preferred. The bigger problem was that when retracting pistons for new pads which are about 1/8" wider due to being new we started to leak a lot of fluid and I got nervous if something like a seal was being damaged while screwing out the outer allen key? So, is it okay to keep turning the screw to make room for the new pads and then once the .008" clearance is achieved just tighten the 13mm nut with no more leaks? ![]() ![]() |
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Luke M |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,381 Joined: 8-February 05 From: WNY Member No.: 3,574 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
The pad/pin issue has been around for as long as I can recall.
You have to drill out the hole in the brake pads that take the larger pins. Problem fixed that way. I've been doing it that way on 6's since the late 80's. Then you adjust the pad drag on the calipers. Remove the adjustment covers, use an allen wrench to adjust pads , re-install caps and done. |
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