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Mueller |
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
So I was helping Sandy with his original /6 yesterday , we put new Porterfield pads on his car.
Fronts are easy, however the rear I ended up putting the stock pads back on due to a few reasons: Large diameter pins wouldn't fit into new pads, options: Grind down pins or drill/mill the backing plate for larger diameter? Easy options, just not sure which is preferred. The bigger problem was that when retracting pistons for new pads which are about 1/8" wider due to being new we started to leak a lot of fluid and I got nervous if something like a seal was being damaged while screwing out the outer allen key? So, is it okay to keep turning the screw to make room for the new pads and then once the .008" clearance is achieved just tighten the 13mm nut with no more leaks? ![]() ![]() |
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rgalla9146 |
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,579 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Paramus NJ Member No.: 5,176 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
This is an interesting discussion.
In my experience if an adjuster didn't move a piston you could spin it at one RPM or 9000 RPM and nothing happened. The clutch devise simply could not overcome the resistance of the piston to move. When I had such a problem I would lever the piston in while turning the adjuster. This would usually free the piston and allow pad installation and adjustment. Flushing and bleeding afterward is a good idea. I've never heard of using a power tool to turn the adjusters. |
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