1973 2.0L Rustoration, Restoration turned OT garage build Options

[Superhawk996]

I purchased my first 914 back in 1987 (1973 1.7L) and had that car for nearly a decade and I personally put over 100,000 miles on it before it ultimately fell victim to a negligent driver that drove into the back end of it at about 40 mph while the vehicle was stopped at a red light. That rear end crash totaled the vehicle but what is amazing is how well it crumpled (early crush zones!) due to the kink in the frame where the halfshafts are. Everyone walked away unharmed.

I replaced it with a 1991 Miata. Great car in its own right but I've always missed my 914.

Purchased this "replacement" in May 2018 as a known poster child for a complete right side longitudinal rustoration.

This vehicle had been put into storage inside a pole barn around 2004 as far as I can tell.

Vehicle initially purchased in non-running condition:
Engine couldn't be started.
Transmission shift linkage was disconnected
Half shafts and CV's were in pieces, and the wheel stubs were not installed therefore the vehicle couldn't even be rolled without risking having the rear wheel separate from within the bearing.
Fiberglass laid into the floorpan . . . that can't be a good sign.

Vehicle looks great . . . until I got under it.

I spent the better part of the summer putting the items above back together and trying to confirm that it would:
1) Run under its own power
2) Drive though the neighborhood and shift though all gears.



Looks pretty nice eh?

Here is what is lurking underneath once the rockers came off.



and when I started cutting back the rust. Oh my . . . .

[Superhawk996]

Overall pretty happy with progress so far.

Floor pan and Inner Longitudinal removed. Lots of drilling of spot welds! Used the demo saw to remove more of the passenger side floor.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)



Then put passenger side door back on to gauge door fit. Overall I'm pretty happy. However, it seems the only way to get a decent fit is to shim the bottom hinge slightly (1 washer). I don't recall my old car having any door shims. However, it also seems odd that there is no way to "tilt" the door without using a shim.

Overall looks reasonable for a rough fit up but needs a little more tweaking.

[bbrock]

Then put passenger side door back on to gauge door fit. Overall I'm pretty happy. However, it seems the only way to get a decent fit is to shim the bottom hinge slightly (1 washer). I don't recall my old car having any door shims. However, it also seems odd that there is no way to "tilt" the door without using a shim.

Overall looks reasonable for a rough fit up but needs a little more tweaking.

Believe it or not, you can often fix a sagging door by just grabbing the rear bottom and reefing up on it. Alternatively, if you look carefully, you may find a slight bulge in hinge pillar at the upper hinge. Over the years, the metal seems to stretch there and cause the door to droop at the rear. So you can gently push that bulge back with a body hammer. I was surprised how a tiny adjustment fixed my drooping doors. I used a combo of the two methods to fix the droop and achieve the gaps I wanted fore and aft.

Nice work you are doing!

[Superhawk996]

Then put passenger side door back on to gauge door fit. Overall I'm pretty happy. However, it seems the only way to get a decent fit is to shim the bottom hinge slightly (1 washer). I don't recall my old car having any door shims. However, it also seems odd that there is no way to "tilt" the door without using a shim.

Overall looks reasonable for a rough fit up but needs a little more tweaking.

Believe it or not, you can often fix a sagging door by just grabbing the rear bottom and reefing up on it. Alternatively, if you look carefully, you may find a slight bulge in hinge pillar at the upper hinge. Over the years, the metal seems to stretch there and cause the door to droop at the rear. So you can gently push that bulge back with a body hammer. I was surprised how a tiny adjustment fixed my drooping doors. I used a combo of the two methods to fix the droop and achieve the gaps I wanted fore and aft.

Nice work you are doing!

Tried that to a limited extent. However I pulled by back out really bad about a month ago so I wasn't in a hurry to overdo it! The "reefing method" is what used to get done in auto assembly plants to tweak door fits and window channel fits as recently as the late 90's. I might use a floor jack though if push comes to shove.

That was the 1st time for me with pulling my back like that and it was not fun and had me laid out for a couple days. I was trying to move my engine a bit without a dolly or hoist. Made the mistake of lifting and twisting at the same time. Used to be able to do that when I was 20. No so much anymore! Not only are the 914's older and in worse shape than I recall in the 80's -- so am I!