Type 4 oil pump rebuild, Comparison of OEM vs. Samba CNC pump |
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Type 4 oil pump rebuild, Comparison of OEM vs. Samba CNC pump |
Superhawk996 |
May 26 2019, 05:51 PM
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#1
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,663 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Playing with the idea of what it will take to rebuild a type 4 pump.
The pump that came out of my 2.0L engine is trashed from pumping rust. Both the gears and the housings are seriously scored. I figured I'd roll the dice and see what might be on Ebay. Took a gamble and bought a used pump hoping I might get some core parts that are useful. I did end up with a good housing outer. However, the gears are pitted and it the inner housing plate either has a serious casting flaw, or some sort of galvanic corrosion that pitted it. I always struggle with this kind of thing. It really would have minimal effect on the pump and it probably worked OK for a lot of years. However, I'd just like to know that it is perfect going before going into a engine. It looks like new inner plates are available but at a cost of $150+. I decided that since I have a donor "scrap" pump, I have nothing to lose by experimenting with machining it. |
Valy |
May 27 2019, 02:12 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,677 Joined: 6-April 10 From: Sunnyvale, CA Member No.: 11,573 Region Association: Northern California |
@Superhawk996
It works well, no issues so far but I'm not driving it much. Just make sure you get a pump that has the right diameter. The iron ones like Melling are too small and expand at a different rate than aluminum. Even with the O ring, there will be a lot of bypass between in and out and a lot of pressure on the outside gasket that may eventually fail. Make sure the mounting surface is flat (the 2 case halfs) and always add some sealer to the gasket. Use a thick gasket too. Look at the gasket template in my signature. I made my own gaskets to be sure. Don't over torque the bolts if you don't want leaks and use big washers. |
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