Alternator question., Not Charging. Options

[Olympic 914]

Took the car out for a drive today, planning on going to dinner. everything is working as it should. getting on the PA turnpike and I had to accelerate briskly to get into traffic, and a moment later I noticed that the RED alternator light had come on. Pulled of at a wide spot to check the belt and wires and shut it off. Not checking the belt with it running. Belt good, plug tight, tapped the VR a couple times for good measure and started it back up. Light still on and now my Autometer AFR gauge just had bars. I know that is because it doesn't turn on until the voltage is +13v So not charging.

Now I am on a limited access highway with the next exit `12-15 miles away. Good thing had the battery fully charged on the tender before I left the house. So I made it to the next exit, turned around and headed back home for a total of 35 miles on battery only. Whew. But that shot dinner.....



Replace the VR with another I had that previously tested good. still no charging. checked the plug on the relay plate again. looks good.

I have not yet checked the wire connections at the alternator, possibly a wire vibrated loose during the brisk acceleration.

Now the question

I read to test the VR to short between D+ and DF and if the alternator is good voltage at the battery will go to alternator maximum of about 15-16V

So do I REMOVE the VR for this test? and jump between the D+ and DF at the relay plate.
OR
Leave the VR in place and short between those pins?

[Gatornapper]

Re: VR not working.

Both VR's I have get very hot - too hot to touch. So it seems that they are trying to work - lot of activity going on electrically to produce all that heat......

[Olympic 914]

Re: VR not working.

Both VR's I have get very hot - too hot to touch. So it seems that they are trying to work - lot of activity going on electrically to produce all that heat......

I had two original regulators that were tested as good at a auto electric shop and both of them would get hot when running. That may be why there is a hole in the relay board under the regulator, to let some air get in there.

I purchased a solid state regulator from BERU. and it works perfectly and does not get hot. you have to modify the mounting holes on the BERU unit and trim the plastic relay board cover for it to fit but when mounted you can't see the modification to the cover.

I think the BERU unit was $25-30

[Gatornapper]

Thanks - would like to get one....

Checked BERU's site, cannot get to where I can purchase a unit......entered United States, and my zip code - got nothing......

I had two original regulators that were tested as good at a auto electric shop and both of them would get hot when running. That may be why there is a hole in the relay board under the regulator, to let some air get in there.

I purchased a solid state regulator from BERU. and it works perfectly and does not get hot. you have to modify the mounting holes on the BERU unit and trim the plastic relay board cover for it to fit but when mounted you can't see the modification to the cover.

I think the BERU unit was $25-30