Rebuiding Inside-out Options

[bkrantz]

I realize most rebuilds go from the inside to the outside, but I am struck by how straight and clean the outer panels, including paint, look on my 73 2.0. And all the nasty stuff is hidden underneath--which I know is also not unusual.

Any way, I bought the car knowing most of what it was: a 2.0 with all the sport and appearance group equipment, including 5 good Fuchs, and the original fuel injection. The original engine is confirmed by a COA. In contrast to the exterior the interior was mixed at best, with some funky carpet. And the front and rear trunks (and engine compartment, and interior) had been sprayed with black undercoating.

So after a month, I have the car stripped to a bare shell, except for suspension and steering. I measured everything I could, and the body is very square and on spec. I need to patch some local rust spots, and replace the rear floor. And then do some minor straightening: right headlight bucket, front edge of right front fender, rear panel, etc.

[bkrantz]

Cleaner cut for the rear trunk floor. Looks like the distance from the rear panel to the transaxle support cross member is short 1/4 inch, compared to the RD replacement panel.

[Garland]

Cleaner cut for the rear trunk floor. Looks like the distance from the rear panel to the transaxle support cross member is short 1/4 inch, compared to the RD replacement panel.

Humm. I have the same one, but mine does not have that lip over the cross brace. It just runs out straight. Did you fold it over to make the flange for the spot welds? Did you drill and weld in a nut in the cross brace, or just go with out it?


I bent the lip, and made the flange. I did not add the nut. Just be sure to line it up tight, before you decide where to bend. And that the small center cap fits the width.

Link to:My Build page on the trunk pan