Cone Screw install, Does this look right Options

[Coondog]

Put in a new Cone Screw, but it only went this far. I really put the muscle to it along with a dap of lock tight.

Is this correct or am I doing something wrong ??

[914forme]

The factory part is cast, like was pointed out it has a bump for thread engagement. The PMS part looks machined from a tube, interesting design, not sure why they changed it? Tangerine still uses the stock casting. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

If you still have the stock casting, take measurements of the the overall distance from the inner edge to the outer side of the casting where the Cone Screw fits, then compare. It is the only way you will know. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Hopefully like pointed out your good, with that much of the screw showing blue loctite would do the trick, I would go with Red, as you can get heat to it with a fine pencil tipped torch or a piece of metal heated to red, and then placed on it to transfer the heat, to the screw. Even if you did strip the Allen section, it is just 4mm, you have enough exposed that you should be able to get something clamped on. If it became a huge issue, then I would use a nut, spin it on, and weld it to the cone screw. Giving grip to remove and the heat to bust the "Red" loctite out of it death grip on your cone screw.

Or you carry a bag of them with you, and a 4mm wrench and replace them when they fall out.

You could also safety wire them if you never wanted to worry about it again.