Microsquirt build, my attempt... And while I am in there..., Remote oil filter / cooler and fuel pump front relocation |
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Microsquirt build, my attempt... And while I am in there..., Remote oil filter / cooler and fuel pump front relocation |
Montreal914 |
Dec 22 2019, 01:53 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,699 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California |
After reading and reading some more, I finally decided a few months ago to challenge myself with a Microsquirt conversion. Many members here were very inspirational. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) I want to thank the ones who have shared their builds and issues as they are very helpful. I hope my build can contribute to others and add to this wealth of information. I'm also aware that I might run into issues but that is part of the process.
First, a little background. A few years back I rebuilt my 2.0 due to a spun rod bearing on my last run of my first DE event with POC at Streets of Willows. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) While this was an unpleasant outcome, the day still remains a fantastic moment with my 914. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I did the rebuild myself with all of the valuable information here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) I like to think that I did things right and the outcome is a fun 2056 with mild cam, D-Jet oblige, that I have enjoyed commuting with for many years and took along the coast all the way to Monterey four times, two of which were to attend the amazing Rennsport Reunion V and VI. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) One of the reasons I want to upgrade to a modern FI system is to be able to better tune the engine which is limited on the D-Jet, especially when engine displacement is increased as we know. This is the first step in my ultimate build which would be a 78x96 stroker engine. But that will be later. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif) So here we go! I bought my Microsquirt and crank trigger sensor sensor setup from Mario at the Dubshop. I like the way the trigger is engineered and it allows the installation of remote oil plumbing (full-er flow setup). Being on a very tight budget (I know this doesn't rimes with 914 anymore) I bought all my new individual components from ebay with matching pigtail connectors to build my own harness. VW waste spark coil pack GM 1 bar MAP sensor Hyundai (and others) TPS BMW ICV BMW air cooled motorcycle CHT sensor (used). Same M10 thread as the D-Jet CHT. I will be reusing: Stock green injectors, with additional resistors Stock IAT sensor I also bought new connectors and crimp terminals and boots for all reused stock components. To begin the build, I elected to prepare a development harness with extra wire length and build a bread board setup. This will allow me to make sure that all components are functioning. Once the engine is running, I will rebuild the harness with the proper wire length and sleeves to ensure a clean and reliable installation. Enough writing... On with what people want! Pictures (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Bread Board setup: 1 Bar GM MAP Sensor: Resistance pack for low impedance green stock injectors. The resistances are not needed if you use modern high impedance injectors. Used BMW Motorcycle Cylinder Head Temp sensor with M10 thread which will screw in the stock 2.0 head CHT location. Throttle position switch compatible with the stock 914 throttle body with its 8mm D shape shaft. Stock intake air temp sensor with new crimp and connector: |
Montreal914 |
Dec 23 2019, 11:12 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,699 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California |
I will try to answer all the questions but before I would like to say that I am flattered by the interest and the comments shared by the knowledgeable and highly respected members here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)
I will try to do this in order... @GregAmy : Source eBay, Bosch knockoff used on Volvo, Saab, Porsche. P/N GEGT610131, $13.34 including the pigtail connector. Clearance with air filter, a picture = 1000 words @MarkHenry: (Don't remember how to ping someone with the @ and space in username...) This is all I have purchased so far. The rest, I had accumulated over the years (wires, transformer for breadboard setup). I also already have an AFR gauge on the car that I will reuse. @JeffBowlsby : It would be very difficult to track time because I have been reading about MS conversion for about 2-3 years and I will still need to read more as I go along. For me, this is not about time spent, it's about the journey... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) @JamesM : Thank you for commenting, I highly value your input on the MS. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Based on what you said, I will not use the ICV in the beginning. check. I will order a second MAP immediately. check. I already have an AEM wideband O2 sensor that I bought and installed when I built my 2056. Since I have SS heat exchangers and a banana muffler, its location is far from ideal. It's in the tailpipe as close to the muffler as possible... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
JamesM |
Dec 24 2019, 01:33 AM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,991 Joined: 6-April 06 From: Kearns, UT Member No.: 5,834 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
Based on what you said, I will not use the ICV in the beginning. check. I will order a second MAP immediately. check. I already have an AEM wideband O2 sensor that I bought and installed when I built my 2056. Since I have SS heat exchangers and a banana muffler, its location is far from ideal. It's in the tailpipe as close to the muffler as possible... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) If you already bought the ICV there is no harm in using it I was just saying that its a place where you could have saved a few bucks as you should be able to get on fine without it, especially if you still have an original working AAR. Good that you have a wideband already. while the placement isnt ideal you should be able to get by though i suspect you may get some fluctuating readings at idle. I find idle mixture is usually best dialed in by ear though anyways. Bursch mufflers are relatively cheap, especially used and all 4 pipes join before the muffler giving a more ideal place to install a wideband sensor. If you can find one for a cheap price, or even one you could borrow it may be worth it to swap out while tuning. I have one setup specifically for this purpose, if you were closer I would let you run it. Shipping the thing would probably cost more than it is worth. Cant wait to see your system come together. |
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