3.0 /6 in storage the case is filing with oil, and starting to leak on the floor. |
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3.0 /6 in storage the case is filing with oil, and starting to leak on the floor. |
Mark Henry |
Dec 26 2019, 12:51 PM
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#1
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
So my '74 /6 conversion with the DWD sump tank is slowly leaking down into the engine sump. I have a leaking #6 rocker shaft that I'll have to R&R so I know my engine is full to at least to the exhaust rockers. I know it doesn't drain enough to do this if I drive at least weekly. I have a buddy who's well worn engine has hydrolocked a few times due to this.
I had to start and move the car, quite the smoke show. Only automatic cure I've seen so far is a $300 valve from Rothsport. Or I could just install a ball valve and red tag my dash for just over $20. I know it's a common 911 issue, do you other /6 owners have this issue and what do you do about it? |
Superhawk996 |
Dec 26 2019, 01:25 PM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,598 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Only logical solution is to drive it daily. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) But being in Ontario, you have the same problem as me . . . Winter.
Worn(ish) oil pump gears won't help but honestly even perfectly new gears will still bypass oil over time. A long time ago I worked on suspension project that used hydraulics to control vehicle ride height. The project was eventually cancelled because over time, hydraulic fluid would eventually leak past the closed orifice valves and the vehicle would go unlevel. Imagine coming home from a 3 week vacation and finding your vehicle at the airport listing to one side like a sinking ship. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Of course it would level out upon start up but it sure looked stupid! Even super precision control valves (i.e. high $$) still leaked, they only slowed the rate of leakage. The project was doomed financially due to the cost of the control valves and the inability to find an economical valve that wouldn't leak over extended periods of time. I don't think there is a total solution. I would expect the anti-drainback valve to leak down over time too. It would just be a whole lot longer periof of time. This is the crux of a dry sump, especially one with the tank above the engine. I'll be watching this one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) |
jd74914 |
Dec 26 2019, 03:22 PM
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#3
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Its alive Group: Members Posts: 4,818 Joined: 16-February 04 From: CT Member No.: 1,659 Region Association: North East States |
A long time ago I worked on suspension project that used hydraulics to control vehicle ride height. The project was eventually cancelled because over time, hydraulic fluid would eventually leak past the closed orifice valves and the vehicle would go unlevel. Imagine coming home from a 3 week vacation and finding your vehicle at the airport listing to one side like a sinking ship. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Of course it would level out upon start up but it sure looked stupid! You mean people didn't like the Citroen DS look? I have a coworker who drives a DS21 almost daily in the winter ( (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) I know-his summer car is a Saab 96 with something like 750k on it) and always loved watching it pump back up from "low position." your pretty handy , the Porsche part is $125, needs some creativity = time=$$ https://www.911partsdirect.com/shop/996-99-...-metzger-motor/ Im going to use a in hand manual ball valve..my Tank is even higher in the rear trunk...maybe this 12 volt.. Everyday driver for yrs no problem, Instaled in another 14 sits alot,,and its an experience to start... although it doesnt smoke much . https://www.amazon.com/Motorized-Stainless-...rial&sr=1-2 I'm not a huge fan of adding the check valve in the top link. You're adding an "undetectable" failure point, especially in terms of partial open failures. Strong opinion to follow but...absolutely do not use a motorized ball valve. I have not found a motorized ball valves under ~$1500 that doesn't suck (after over a decade of dealing this these kind of components). Eventually they all fail and to be safe you have to watch them-at that point you might as well have a manual ball valve and lock-out tag-out like your original idea. I would never buy one without position feedback that would prevent the car from starting on event of a non-open. Not worth it. My dad's 911 sits a lot too. We've resigned to letting it smoke on startup and kinda cough to life. |
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