Wiring for an Engine Run Stand with DJet |
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Wiring for an Engine Run Stand with DJet |
doug_b_928 |
May 6 2019, 07:32 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 712 Joined: 17-January 13 From: Winnipeg Member No.: 15,382 Region Association: Canada |
I'm building an engine stand that will serve multiple purposes (transport, storage, installation/removal, and testing/break-in). The one part I have very little clue about how to do is the wiring. I've searched the forum and have seen others express an interest in having wiring info for a test stand, but it doesn't seem to be documented anywhere. So, hopefully this thread will help not only me, but also anyone else in the future who is looking to do the same.
I'm going to have the djet 'computer', manifold pressure sensor (MPS), decel valve, fuel pump, and regulator plate/relay board mounted to the stand. The ground that normally connects the battery/engine to the chassis will be grounded to the stand. The wiring for the MPS will be connected to it and the wiring for the fuel injectors, alternator, and 12 pin connector will all be connected to the regulator plate. In other words, it is as if the engine were in the car with the exception of the wiring connections at the 14 pin connector on the regulator plate. On the stand's 'dash board' I think (please correct me if I'm wrong) I need an ignition toggle switch, a momentary starter switch, an oil pressure 'idiot' light (I'm getting a cheap LED light on sale tomorrow), a tachometer (I have a cheap, generic one from FLAPS), and lever with a cable for controlling the throttle. So the question is, what is the correct way to wire these items? I have the figures from Jeff Bowlsby's webpage and the wiring diagrams. What I'm missing is the theory of what I need to do wiring-wise to make the engine run and get the feedback to the tachometer and idiot light. I'm hoping others who appear to have done this can chime in with their thoughts (paging @StratPlayer @VaccaRabite @michelko @mb911 @barefoot ) and wiring gurus (like @JeffBowlsby ). I assume I run wires from the battery to the two power pins on the 14 pin connector, so that the regulator plate has power. After that, although I think it should be pretty simple, I'm not 100% on how to wire the ignition, starter, tach and idiot light to the 14 pin connector. Please advise. |
cary |
Dec 30 2019, 11:12 AM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Spoke ???
I ran separate fused wires to 12 & 14 on the relay board. What size fuse ? I see you call out 50amp on on the double wire. |
Spoke |
Jan 2 2020, 10:06 AM
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#3
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 7,104 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
Spoke ??? I ran separate fused wires to 12 & 14 on the relay board. What size fuse ? I see you call out 50amp on on the double wire. I used 50amp since the fuel pump is powered by these pins and the fuel pump itself has a 20amp fuse. The 50amp is a swag at something that would be high enough to not blow under normal operation and low enough not to fry wires. |
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