Microsquirt build, my attempt... And while I am in there..., Remote oil filter / cooler and fuel pump front relocation Options

[Montreal914]

After reading and reading some more, I finally decided a few months ago to challenge myself with a Microsquirt conversion. Many members here were very inspirational. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) I want to thank the ones who have shared their builds and issues as they are very helpful. I hope my build can contribute to others and add to this wealth of information. I'm also aware that I might run into issues but that is part of the process.

First, a little background. A few years back I rebuilt my 2.0 due to a spun rod bearing on my last run of my first DE event with POC at Streets of Willows. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) While this was an unpleasant outcome, the day still remains a fantastic moment with my 914. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I did the rebuild myself with all of the valuable information here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

I like to think that I did things right and the outcome is a fun 2056 with mild cam, D-Jet oblige, that I have enjoyed commuting with for many years and took along the coast all the way to Monterey four times, two of which were to attend the amazing Rennsport Reunion V and VI. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

One of the reasons I want to upgrade to a modern FI system is to be able to better tune the engine which is limited on the D-Jet, especially when engine displacement is increased as we know. This is the first step in my ultimate build which would be a 78x96 stroker engine. But that will be later. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

So here we go!

I bought my Microsquirt and crank trigger sensor sensor setup from Mario at the Dubshop. I like the way the trigger is engineered and it allows the installation of remote oil plumbing (full-er flow setup).

Being on a very tight budget (I know this doesn't rimes with 914 anymore) I bought all my new individual components from ebay with matching pigtail connectors to build my own harness.

VW waste spark coil pack
GM 1 bar MAP sensor
Hyundai (and others) TPS
BMW ICV
BMW air cooled motorcycle CHT sensor (used). Same M10 thread as the D-Jet CHT.

I will be reusing:
Stock green injectors, with additional resistors
Stock IAT sensor

I also bought new connectors and crimp terminals and boots for all reused stock components.

To begin the build, I elected to prepare a development harness with extra wire length and build a bread board setup. This will allow me to make sure that all components are functioning. Once the engine is running, I will rebuild the harness with the proper wire length and sleeves to ensure a clean and reliable installation.

Enough writing... On with what people want! Pictures (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Bread Board setup:


1 Bar GM MAP Sensor:


Resistance pack for low impedance green stock injectors. The resistances are not needed if you use modern high impedance injectors.


Used BMW Motorcycle Cylinder Head Temp sensor with M10 thread which will screw in the stock 2.0 head CHT location.


Throttle position switch compatible with the stock 914 throttle body with its 8mm D shape shaft.


Stock intake air temp sensor with new crimp and connector:

[Montreal914]

A busy (non project related) month has passed already so it's time for me to post some of the updates on the work.

Although I have looked into ways of making the elbow feeding the oil back to the engine one that would have a nice sweep, I didn't come up with any good options. Anyway, I got what I believe to be a forged brass 3/8NPT elbow but the inner passage was not to my liking. The inner sharp corner that results from the machining of the ID from both side was so thin that is was already chipping. Clearly, it had to be massaged (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

Before:





After: This should help to flow around this corner. Not only the passage was increased in size but the inner corner was rounded as much as I could with my various Dremel bits.




On to installation... The first dry run showed that there might be interference between the elbow and the engine block, so I did a little filing to ensure proper fit.






Final clocking:




Moving on to the oil pump. My pump is a Type 1 Schadek 30mm, which is considered to be on the larger scale for the type 4 engine. That is why I went with @Mark Henry recommendation to use the Gene Berg pressure relief full flow cover.

The issue with using a full flow cover is that the oil line (outlet) interfere's with the passenger side engine mount. There are different options to go around that. In my case, I decided that, for now, I would remove part of one of the two gussets, although this is not ideal.

It is also a well know fact that elbows in fluid dynamics are pressure loss points. Ideally, one would use sweep elbow like the -AN tube style.

After looking at the various pictures of existing setups documented here, I decided to go with a 45deg 3/8NPT male to 10AN male fitting on the pump cover. Then, my Parker Push-Lok 5/8" ID hose would terminate on a 45 degree sweep elbow 10AN female to mate to the cover fitting. This is helps reduce the pressure loss and minimize the modifications done to the engine mount.

Enough talking... on with what people want! Pictures (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Gene Berg pressure relief full flow cover with AN 45deg elbow:




Clocking of the fitting for clearance issues:




Backside view of the cover where we can see how its design feeds nicely into the outlet port. The other small hole is actually the pressure bypass that feeds back into the pump. Simple.





So now that we have this, what is the required clearance needed to the engine mount for all this to work. After a lot of back and forth and removing small portion at a time I came up with this shape to the mount.




After sanding and rattle can paint:




Coming up, engine mount and pump re-installation...