Microsquirt build, my attempt... And while I am in there..., Remote oil filter / cooler and fuel pump front relocation Options

[Montreal914]

After reading and reading some more, I finally decided a few months ago to challenge myself with a Microsquirt conversion. Many members here were very inspirational. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) I want to thank the ones who have shared their builds and issues as they are very helpful. I hope my build can contribute to others and add to this wealth of information. I'm also aware that I might run into issues but that is part of the process.

First, a little background. A few years back I rebuilt my 2.0 due to a spun rod bearing on my last run of my first DE event with POC at Streets of Willows. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) While this was an unpleasant outcome, the day still remains a fantastic moment with my 914. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I did the rebuild myself with all of the valuable information here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

I like to think that I did things right and the outcome is a fun 2056 with mild cam, D-Jet oblige, that I have enjoyed commuting with for many years and took along the coast all the way to Monterey four times, two of which were to attend the amazing Rennsport Reunion V and VI. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

One of the reasons I want to upgrade to a modern FI system is to be able to better tune the engine which is limited on the D-Jet, especially when engine displacement is increased as we know. This is the first step in my ultimate build which would be a 78x96 stroker engine. But that will be later. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

So here we go!

I bought my Microsquirt and crank trigger sensor sensor setup from Mario at the Dubshop. I like the way the trigger is engineered and it allows the installation of remote oil plumbing (full-er flow setup).

Being on a very tight budget (I know this doesn't rimes with 914 anymore) I bought all my new individual components from ebay with matching pigtail connectors to build my own harness.

VW waste spark coil pack
GM 1 bar MAP sensor
Hyundai (and others) TPS
BMW ICV
BMW air cooled motorcycle CHT sensor (used). Same M10 thread as the D-Jet CHT.

I will be reusing:
Stock green injectors, with additional resistors
Stock IAT sensor

I also bought new connectors and crimp terminals and boots for all reused stock components.

To begin the build, I elected to prepare a development harness with extra wire length and build a bread board setup. This will allow me to make sure that all components are functioning. Once the engine is running, I will rebuild the harness with the proper wire length and sleeves to ensure a clean and reliable installation.

Enough writing... On with what people want! Pictures (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Bread Board setup:


1 Bar GM MAP Sensor:


Resistance pack for low impedance green stock injectors. The resistances are not needed if you use modern high impedance injectors.


Used BMW Motorcycle Cylinder Head Temp sensor with M10 thread which will screw in the stock 2.0 head CHT location.


Throttle position switch compatible with the stock 914 throttle body with its 8mm D shape shaft.


Stock intake air temp sensor with new crimp and connector:

[Montreal914]

I finished preparing the Hall sensor by twisting the 3 wires and putting a heat shrink sleeve. I also slid over a rubber grommet that will go in the opening if the engine tin.




Installing the bracket for the Hall effect crank trigger I noticed the engine block has a small counter bore on the lower bolt of the crankshaft seal. I used a thin washer so that the bracket sits on a flat face, not a void.

Before bracket installation:




With crank sensor bracket on. We can't see it but there is a washer hidden between the block and the bracket (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)




I adjusted the distance between the sensor face and the backside of the 36-1 toothed wheel to 2.1mm. Recommendation is less than 3mm.






Last step for the day, I removed the distributor drive and installed the distributor plug. Here there are a few options available. I chose this one because of its design. The long center set screw actually pushes outward the bottom of the plug cut in 4 segments. This should prevent the plug from popping out.