Microsquirt build, my attempt... And while I am in there..., Remote oil filter / cooler and fuel pump front relocation Options

[Montreal914]

After reading and reading some more, I finally decided a few months ago to challenge myself with a Microsquirt conversion. Many members here were very inspirational. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) I want to thank the ones who have shared their builds and issues as they are very helpful. I hope my build can contribute to others and add to this wealth of information. I'm also aware that I might run into issues but that is part of the process.

First, a little background. A few years back I rebuilt my 2.0 due to a spun rod bearing on my last run of my first DE event with POC at Streets of Willows. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) While this was an unpleasant outcome, the day still remains a fantastic moment with my 914. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I did the rebuild myself with all of the valuable information here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

I like to think that I did things right and the outcome is a fun 2056 with mild cam, D-Jet oblige, that I have enjoyed commuting with for many years and took along the coast all the way to Monterey four times, two of which were to attend the amazing Rennsport Reunion V and VI. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

One of the reasons I want to upgrade to a modern FI system is to be able to better tune the engine which is limited on the D-Jet, especially when engine displacement is increased as we know. This is the first step in my ultimate build which would be a 78x96 stroker engine. But that will be later. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

So here we go!

I bought my Microsquirt and crank trigger sensor sensor setup from Mario at the Dubshop. I like the way the trigger is engineered and it allows the installation of remote oil plumbing (full-er flow setup).

Being on a very tight budget (I know this doesn't rimes with 914 anymore) I bought all my new individual components from ebay with matching pigtail connectors to build my own harness.

VW waste spark coil pack
GM 1 bar MAP sensor
Hyundai (and others) TPS
BMW ICV
BMW air cooled motorcycle CHT sensor (used). Same M10 thread as the D-Jet CHT.

I will be reusing:
Stock green injectors, with additional resistors
Stock IAT sensor

I also bought new connectors and crimp terminals and boots for all reused stock components.

To begin the build, I elected to prepare a development harness with extra wire length and build a bread board setup. This will allow me to make sure that all components are functioning. Once the engine is running, I will rebuild the harness with the proper wire length and sleeves to ensure a clean and reliable installation.

Enough writing... On with what people want! Pictures (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Bread Board setup:


1 Bar GM MAP Sensor:


Resistance pack for low impedance green stock injectors. The resistances are not needed if you use modern high impedance injectors.


Used BMW Motorcycle Cylinder Head Temp sensor with M10 thread which will screw in the stock 2.0 head CHT location.


Throttle position switch compatible with the stock 914 throttle body with its 8mm D shape shaft.


Stock intake air temp sensor with new crimp and connector:

[Montreal914]

Next step, prepare the oil lines that need to be installed before the fan housing goes back on. To prepare the lines I needed to establish their length.

The lines will be connected to the remote filter - H type oil thermostat panel.

First, using aluminum parts I had, and my trusted hack saw, HF drill and file, I prepared this integrated setup that will be mounted on the passenger side lower firewall. You can see the remote oil filter mount and H-type oil thermostat.

The 2 blue AN-10 fittings on the right are for the lines coming from and going to the engine. Note that this oil filter mount can be used in various configurations. In this case, you can see that one port is plugged on each side (silver plug). Arrows allow to see the flow path.




Oil flow; Oil is siphoned from the engine case by the oil pump. Pump pushes the oil out of the engine via the pump cover, and feeds the remote oil filter. From the filter, oil goes to the thermostat. If the oil is below 180F, the thermostat is closed and the oil goes back to the engine (thermostat upper right port). At about 180F, the thermostat opens and the oil is routed to the external oil cooler via the thermostat lower left port and loops back to the thermostat upper left port then through it and back to the engine.


Moving on... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

After taking a few reference measurement I did a quick mock-up of the setup to define the actual length of the oil lines linking the engine to the filter/thermostat panel,




Whit this in place, I was able to prepare the oil lines. I am using Parker Push-Lok high temperature 836-10 blue hose. The 10 is for 5/8" (as in 10/16") and will be a perfect fit for my aluminum AN-10 push-on fittings.




And Voilà! just like that a couple of lines installed!
We are now ready to move on to the reassembly of the engine tin, fan housing and fan. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)