Microsquirt build, my attempt... And while I am in there..., Remote oil filter / cooler and fuel pump front relocation Options

[Montreal914]

After reading and reading some more, I finally decided a few months ago to challenge myself with a Microsquirt conversion. Many members here were very inspirational. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) I want to thank the ones who have shared their builds and issues as they are very helpful. I hope my build can contribute to others and add to this wealth of information. I'm also aware that I might run into issues but that is part of the process.

First, a little background. A few years back I rebuilt my 2.0 due to a spun rod bearing on my last run of my first DE event with POC at Streets of Willows. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) While this was an unpleasant outcome, the day still remains a fantastic moment with my 914. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I did the rebuild myself with all of the valuable information here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

I like to think that I did things right and the outcome is a fun 2056 with mild cam, D-Jet oblige, that I have enjoyed commuting with for many years and took along the coast all the way to Monterey four times, two of which were to attend the amazing Rennsport Reunion V and VI. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

One of the reasons I want to upgrade to a modern FI system is to be able to better tune the engine which is limited on the D-Jet, especially when engine displacement is increased as we know. This is the first step in my ultimate build which would be a 78x96 stroker engine. But that will be later. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

So here we go!

I bought my Microsquirt and crank trigger sensor sensor setup from Mario at the Dubshop. I like the way the trigger is engineered and it allows the installation of remote oil plumbing (full-er flow setup).

Being on a very tight budget (I know this doesn't rimes with 914 anymore) I bought all my new individual components from ebay with matching pigtail connectors to build my own harness.

VW waste spark coil pack
GM 1 bar MAP sensor
Hyundai (and others) TPS
BMW ICV
BMW air cooled motorcycle CHT sensor (used). Same M10 thread as the D-Jet CHT.

I will be reusing:
Stock green injectors, with additional resistors
Stock IAT sensor

I also bought new connectors and crimp terminals and boots for all reused stock components.

To begin the build, I elected to prepare a development harness with extra wire length and build a bread board setup. This will allow me to make sure that all components are functioning. Once the engine is running, I will rebuild the harness with the proper wire length and sleeves to ensure a clean and reliable installation.

Enough writing... On with what people want! Pictures (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Bread Board setup:


1 Bar GM MAP Sensor:


Resistance pack for low impedance green stock injectors. The resistances are not needed if you use modern high impedance injectors.


Used BMW Motorcycle Cylinder Head Temp sensor with M10 thread which will screw in the stock 2.0 head CHT location.


Throttle position switch compatible with the stock 914 throttle body with its 8mm D shape shaft.


Stock intake air temp sensor with new crimp and connector:

[Montreal914]

I did some good progress recently with all of this time staying home.

Before installing the engine tin back on, I made a small modification to the cylinder 3-4 tin to fit the crank trigger sensor wire grommet. Here you can see the U shaped opening that I will create. As a reference, the large round hole is for the oil pressure sensor grommet.




And the test fit of the grommet.




Then I installed all of the engine tin back on and replaced the belt too.




Here you can see the distributor plug, the the oil pressure boot (914 Rubber) and my HF grease gun high pressure hose for remote oil pressure sender. Also, you can see the crank trigger wire safely installed.




Many new things in this next picture. First, the coil mount fabricated earlier in the thread got painted and installed using the distributor clamp M8 thread in the engine block and the cylinder 3-4 tin 2 mounting screws. The bracket was designed to support the modern VW coil the way it is meant to be, resting on the three mounting points, not on its base. It also supports the MAP sensor seen below the coil. You can also see the rubber vacuum line connected to the MAP sensor. This 6mm hose connects to the standard 914 8mm hose with an aluminum step up barb fitting. You can see the other end of the MAP hose where it has become the standard 8mm hose and connects to the stock location on the plenum.




Aluminum step up barb fitting and hose transition.






Intake runners and stock green injectors reinstalled with fresh o-rings.





Next, I upgraded my Magnecore 8.5mm ignition wires so they could be used with the new VW coil. I ordered LS style terminals and the crimping tool. These next pictures show the various steps involved in this modification. Hopefully, they will work properly...

First, I pulled of the distributor end boot.




Then removed the crimped terminal...




And here we have the wire ready to receive its new terminal.




Using the MSD crimping tool, the new terminal can be crimped on with a wise. Don't forget to slide on the boot first though.




Here is the finished result.




With these ready, they can be installed on the engine.