Tube Chassis Subaru Engine build, Lots of new progress |
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Tube Chassis Subaru Engine build, Lots of new progress |
tazz9924 |
Apr 4 2020, 11:27 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 716 Joined: 31-May 15 From: Mooresville NC Member No.: 18,779 Region Association: None |
Heres the quick break down: My old car got totaled on the side of the road, i got a good settlement out of it and with the money im building A tube frame chassis 914 with Porsche Boxster suspension and a subaru turbo motor.
The goals: (Disclaimer some of these are really down the road and may not make the initial version 2.0, maybe 2.1 or so on and so forth. They are also goals so weather or not i achieve them, it’s something to shoot for.) Tube frame chassis, all made of DOM tube and when all when the car is fully built it should weigh 1600 ish lbs. The motor: It will have a subaru turbo motor. The initial version will see a 2.0 just so i can start having fun but eventually it’ll be a hybrid 2.5 making 400whp The suspension: It will all be porsche boxster same with the brakes so it should handle all the power and lack of weight im throwing at it. The body: It will be all fiberglass panels dzused on with the exception of the A pillar which will be a stock piece from a 914 but it will retain a vin tag. The only other stock 914 related thing will be pop up headlights which will be retained. Aero: This thing will have an extreme aero package. From the smooth underbelly with large rear diffuser and front splitter to canards and a chassis mounted rear wing, This “car” WILL have a presence like little else. Interior: Skip... JK this thing will have a digital dash, k tuned shifter, willwood pedal cluster, and a plaid racing seat. Thats about it, passenger seat is seen as optional at this point. So hopefully this should be good, i dont have much time, even in the covid 19 world we currently find ourselves in right now. It may not be a fast paced build but the goal is to have a roller by june... So lets get to building! OG car: The Crash: Whats Left: I dont have many parts left, I took all the good parts off sold what i could and kept what i needed. |
tazz9924 |
Apr 28 2020, 09:21 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 716 Joined: 31-May 15 From: Mooresville NC Member No.: 18,779 Region Association: None |
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jd74914 |
Apr 29 2020, 09:39 AM
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#3
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Its alive Group: Members Posts: 4,819 Joined: 16-February 04 From: CT Member No.: 1,659 Region Association: North East States |
What's this holding? If it's seeing any real load and not heavily gusseted you're likely going to rip the tube in the HAZ outside of the weld. BTDT. Sometimes gussets don't even do too much. The welds look nice! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) I know you're going along a pretty good clip but below are some pro-tips*: 1) Get a second regulator and purge the ID of the tube frame when you full weld it. Quality will be much higher. 2) Clean the inside of the tubing with a pipe cleaner. 3) Drywall mesh does a really good job of cleaning mill scale off without loading up. A quick pass of the wire brush in one direction afterwards takes care of the rest. 4) For any coped tubes going into a tube without air connection (like your gussets), drill a small hole so 1) gases expanding inside don't cause your pool to blow out at you near closing the weld and 2) you can purge. 5) If you use 4130 or any other high carbon steel, be sure to normalize the weld HAZ to keep it from cracking under use. You can do this with a torch (instructions in Engineer to Win IIRC). *Not a pro welder, but I've welded 5? (can't remember the full count now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)) full tube framed formula cars and a bunch of semi-tubed cars. |
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