TPS variations - has anyone else noticed this ?, trouble shooting and comparing 2 with same part numbers but different stop tabs etc Options

[DRPHIL914]

i will post a picture here of 2 OE TPS with part number that cross references to the 75-76 2.0 D-jet cars.

i recently pulled mine due to it bucking badly @ 2800-3400 rpm on part load or mild acceleration.
i also have one from Gatornapper to test for him and he is sorting out his D-jet parts and prepping to eventually going back from carbs to FI.
What i found was that the stop peg is located on a different place. his
essentially stops the tps from going all the way to the bottom at idle but not at the top on acceleration.
mine on the right. stops the pivot of the shaft from going all the way on the top and keeps it from being able to go off track on max, his would not.
they have the same part number. neither had been tampered with.
also i bought mine as an NOS part 7-8 years ago and now may need to be replaced.
his on the left has much more wear, actually live testing it causes same bucking but at a different lower rpm, due to wear pattern.


any thoughts? i will be putting a new board on mine as soon as it arrives
Right now i am running with it unplugged and no skip buck or hesitation now. i had been thinking it may have been an issue with my rebuilt MPS or developers valve set up or a wire shorting somewhere else, but it’s the TPS.

[DRPHIL914]

ok update:

took advice here and i cleaned the surface and leads , pencil eraser then bent the outside longest one so that it could track along a clean unworn path and Presto!! perfect run on 45 minute drive with no hesitation or bucking!! i will hold on to the new Sprinkle board just in case or for future replacement but right now no need to change it!
i have to say in 12 years of ownership i have never had the car run better, it’s always had a bucking slight or lots, with other TPS’s used, until now.
now to fine tune my idle and accel/decel- decel is very slow to come down after letting up on pedal- it’s not the throttle body or the springs. that comes back fast and tight tho are all new including pedal and accel cable, so why would this be?

You won't have to replace the board.

Just clean it using a fibre glass pencil. Bend the feelers just a little bit sideways so they run on fresh material. < your outer feeler seems to be misadjusted >

Don't oil or grease anything. There is so low electrical current that even WD-40 could make problems. Just clean the board and all will be fine.

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I'm quite sure your unit is the only one that was assembled properly in the factory.
The other units will not give correct idle signal because the arm will never reach the stop-sheet. The arm turns by exactly 90° - no more. You can see the marks of the full-throttle-opening on the board - turn the arm back by 90° and the arms of both othe units will not reach the stop sheet!

Idle signal is given only when the arm reaches the stop-sheet, otherwise the signal is broken by the slide-contact located in the arm.

This misfunction (missing idle signal) will not affect any other function of the TPS.

It will only disable the function of adjusting idle CO at the ECU potentiometer and make idle adjustment more difficult.

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It would be interesting to know the production code of the 3 units. The left one has the code '426' = June 1974. Nojoah's code is '329' = September 1973.

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The production marks / numbers printed on the boards don't matter at all. They have identical design, that is what matters. Don't care about this.

Regards
Norbert