TPS variations - has anyone else noticed this ?, trouble shooting and comparing 2 with same part numbers but different stop tabs etc Options

[DRPHIL914]

i will post a picture here of 2 OE TPS with part number that cross references to the 75-76 2.0 D-jet cars.

i recently pulled mine due to it bucking badly @ 2800-3400 rpm on part load or mild acceleration.
i also have one from Gatornapper to test for him and he is sorting out his D-jet parts and prepping to eventually going back from carbs to FI.
What i found was that the stop peg is located on a different place. his
essentially stops the tps from going all the way to the bottom at idle but not at the top on acceleration.
mine on the right. stops the pivot of the shaft from going all the way on the top and keeps it from being able to go off track on max, his would not.
they have the same part number. neither had been tampered with.
also i bought mine as an NOS part 7-8 years ago and now may need to be replaced.
his on the left has much more wear, actually live testing it causes same bucking but at a different lower rpm, due to wear pattern.


any thoughts? i will be putting a new board on mine as soon as it arrives
Right now i am running with it unplugged and no skip buck or hesitation now. i had been thinking it may have been an issue with my rebuilt MPS or developers valve set up or a wire shorting somewhere else, but it’s the TPS.

[DRPHIL914]

thought i’d post a picture after cleaning up the boards.
This is gatornapper’s , cleaned up like new.
you can hold onto it until
you are ready to put the FI on the car but so far your ECU, and TPS should be good, the MPS has to be rebuilt but that’s not hard. the one i had i was going to offer up the diaphragm for you has a tear in it. at some point get a kit from Tangerine, we can rebuild and tune it up. i know you got your carbs dialed in now so it’s hard to argue with making a change . i can say my FI has never stranded me. now with the TPS figures out and a nice tuned MPS it’s almost set.
one issue i have is when i just start the car idle is too low for about 1-2 minutes then comes up once it warms up some, and that’s at 75-80 degrees outside temp- once it comes
up it’s what you would expect with aar open ,
then once it closes it comes down to perfect idle about 950rpm. wondering if this is a CHT that has too low of resistance when cold, but balanced out once he’d temp comes up a bit?