CV Bolt Replacement, Best Practice and While I'm in There? Options

[Nogoodwithusernames]

Was going to take the 914 out for a spin tonight (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) and two streets from the house *POP* and engine free revs... Figured I broke an axle or something along those lines and sure enough drive side axle is no longer connected to the trans. Haven't dug in to find out if the bolts sheared or backed out but it needs fixing.

I'm planning on replacing all the CV bolts with the safety wire versions from 914 rubber and obviously safety wiring them. But should I locktite them? Antisieze? Neither? Figure I'd clean them and repack the grease, anything else while I'm under there? Might finally put the new shifter bushings I've had sitting around for eons...

(Also how many are there? I think VW has 6 bolts per CV, same for our little NARP? *EDIT* 914 rubber says it right on their site, 16 total.)

[Bartlett 914]

I too have been through this. I discovered the main culprit causing the CV's to work loose it the output flange on the transmission. What happens is when the CV works loose, the bolts pull on the threaded portion of the output flange. This makes the threaded spots higher than the rest of the flange. It may seem that the CV and the output flange are sitting flat to each other but they are not. If you remove the flange and chuck it in a lathe and make a "clean up" cut you will see the high spots are at the thread holes. Once this is clean and flat, screws and new Schorr washers are all that is needed. I use standard socked head cap screws