CV Bolt Replacement, Best Practice and While I'm in There? Options

[Nogoodwithusernames]

Was going to take the 914 out for a spin tonight (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) and two streets from the house *POP* and engine free revs... Figured I broke an axle or something along those lines and sure enough drive side axle is no longer connected to the trans. Haven't dug in to find out if the bolts sheared or backed out but it needs fixing.

I'm planning on replacing all the CV bolts with the safety wire versions from 914 rubber and obviously safety wiring them. But should I locktite them? Antisieze? Neither? Figure I'd clean them and repack the grease, anything else while I'm under there? Might finally put the new shifter bushings I've had sitting around for eons...

(Also how many are there? I think VW has 6 bolts per CV, same for our little NARP? *EDIT* 914 rubber says it right on their site, 16 total.)

[bdstone914]

Clean the holes for the CV bolts. Grease affects the torque value.
If you dont use safety wire put a dot of bright paint on the bottom of the bolt and flange. Check occasionally to see if the dots do not align and they are beginning to back out.

[preach]

Clean the holes for the CV bolts. Grease affects the torque value.
If you dont use safety wire put a dot of bright paint on the bottom of the bolt and flange. Check occasionally to see if the dots do not align and they are beginning to back out.

I thought that true about grease on fasteners for most of my life.

For the last 13 years I have worked as a mechanic and we are required to lubricate fasteners unless we are required to loctite them. Most of the time it is Molykote P-37, but often it is system oil and in some systems another type of lube.

The engineering thought behind this is that a fastener can have small imperfections that can bind and distort the real torque value. The lubrication prevents this as well as minimizes the chance of the fastener to gall.

The majority of the fasteners I deal with have some sort of locking device, wire or locking elements/anaerobic fluid. Additionally many of them are not ferrous metal and will gall pretty easy.

In my shop at home I tend to use a lubricant on all fasteners except for lug nuts.

Not arguing the point just putting up my experience.

[mepstein]

Clean the holes for the CV bolts. Grease affects the torque value.
If you dont use safety wire put a dot of bright paint on the bottom of the bolt and flange. Check occasionally to see if the dots do not align and they are beginning to back out.

I thought that true about grease on fasteners for most of my life.

For the last 13 years I have worked as a mechanic and we are required to lubricate fasteners unless we are required to loctite them. Most of the time it is Molykote P-37, but often it is system oil and in some systems another type of lube.

The engineering thought behind this is that a fastener can have small imperfections that can bind and distort the real torque value. The lubrication prevents this as well as minimizes the chance of the fastener to gall.

The majority of the fasteners I deal with have some sort of locking device, wire or locking elements/anaerobic fluid. Additionally many of them are not ferrous metal and will gall pretty easy.

In my shop at home I tend to use a lubricant on all fasteners except for lug nuts.

Not arguing the point just putting up my experience.

Makes sense but in the case of cv bolts, you want them bone dry and clean.

[76-914]

Clean the holes for the CV bolts. Grease affects the torque value.
If you dont use safety wire put a dot of bright paint on the bottom of the bolt and flange. Check occasionally to see if the dots do not align and they are beginning to back out.

I thought that true about grease on fasteners for most of my life.

For the last 13 years I have worked as a mechanic and we are required to lubricate fasteners unless we are required to loctite them. Most of the time it is Molykote P-37, but often it is system oil and in some systems another type of lube.

The engineering thought behind this is that a fastener can have small imperfections that can bind and distort the real torque value. The lubrication prevents this as well as minimizes the chance of the fastener to gall.

The majority of the fasteners I deal with have some sort of locking device, wire or locking elements/anaerobic fluid. Additionally many of them are not ferrous metal and will gall pretty easy.

In my shop at home I tend to use a lubricant on all fasteners except for lug nuts.

Not arguing the point just putting up my experience.

Makes sense but in the case of cv bolts, you want them bone dry and clean.

I have to agree with Preach here. Unless specified all torque values are not for dry fit. Usually a drop of oil on the 3 starting threads is recommended. Besides, the area is never clean unless you've rebuilt that entire CV and corresponding hub. You're a sharp cookie Mark so I'd like to see where you've read that. For my own enlightenment anyway. I could probably win a bar bet with that knowledge. To the OP. Do not try to loosen the bolts, or tighten for that matter, unless the Allen socket is clean and the 4 square wrench bottoms out completely. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)