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brant |
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914 Wizard ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 11,642 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hi everyone
I have a gauge that I got from Slits to use in my street car I still have not installed it, and its been a few years now my 1st question: -what can you tell me about this gauge? is it 1972 or 1973? silver dot so maybe a really early 73 appearance gauge? I'm not selling this one, just curious and for my own use 2nd questions: -how do I determine if my current senders, or which senders will be needed. Currently I have a -6 fuel/oil temp gauge in the dash its wired to the correct sender in the taco plate it was 20 years ago... so I'll need to pull the sender to find out which model number it is. any way I can tell from the numbers/model of gauge which sender is correct to use with this one ? the fuel side of this "new to me gauge." Its a 914/4 gauge, with a stock 914 fuel tank and sender. I'm betting it is within the correct 90 -0 ohm range since it likely use the stock sender in the fuel tank. How can I verify that, or what do the experts and charts indicate as confirmation? thank you in advance everyone! brant Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Retroracer |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 617 Joined: 7-July 13 From: Bend OR Member No.: 16,100 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
Brant - minor word of caution here: this size and style of gauges was used over several models and over a number of years; also, it is relatively simple to pull the mechanisms from the back and swap them out, but to compound that, it also easy to swap around the fascias too. In other words, the gauge mechanism you think may be inside MIGHT NOT not be what you're expecting...
So looking at the shots you posted, the variation in corrosion of the two gauge halves MAY be an indicator that one of them has been swapped out? Usually the pattern of corrosion tends to be uniform, as all metal components are exposed equally. Another clue is that when new, VDO (usually) put some green gunk (technical term) on each of the fastener screws to thread lock them; on untouched, pristine units you can usually still see remnants of this in place - again, the shots of yours indicate the securing screws have been removed at some point. Again, comments are cautionary. Please don't take this as negative or critical intent! - Tony |
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