Rust repair before paint, The quest for solid metal in the driver side Long - 73 narrow body/4 rebuild thread |
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Rust repair before paint, The quest for solid metal in the driver side Long - 73 narrow body/4 rebuild thread |
Montreal914 |
Oct 24 2020, 05:59 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,700 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California |
Edit: I might as well make this my rebuild thread...
Original post; I got side tracked on my Microsquirt build as I have decided, after 11 years of ownership, to finally get my car painted to get her ready for her upcoming 50th birthday. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Knowing these endeavors can take a lot more time than initially planned, I hope to make it in time... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) Originally bahia red 73 1.7. The goal is a narrow body 2056 Microsquirt, VW Tornado red, 5 lugs conversion with 16" Fuchs. Front: 914-4 A arms with rubber bushings, 911 3" pin struts, Bilstein inserts, Alfa Brembo, vented rotor, stock torsion bar, 19mm sway bar, turbo tie rods, and 19mm master cylinder. Rear: Drilled hubs, But before I get the pleasure of installing all of these beautiful fresh goodies, I need to tackle the not so fun stuff... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I have already started fixing some of the rust issues and will share that progress in the near future but right now, I wanted to post some of the issues i have on the passenger side front fender. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I have searched and read many of the builds here but I would like some inputs from the people who have gone through this mess. I am trying to understand the construction of the rear part of the fender, more precisely the area joining the front cowling. Below is a sketch of how I think it is made but i would like someone to confirm... Having removed the seam sealer in the upper rear area, I have discovered "this" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) which is not really unusual, but clearly a pain to fix. I am not sure though what I am looking at. If my sketch is correct, I guess the inner rusted layer is from the fender rear bulkhead that actually becomes an inner layer on the rear upper point of the fender by the door and cowling junction. I might be able to cut this from the underside preventing me from cutting the outer surface of the fender. But I would like to better understand what is happening at the junction to the body. How many layers are there from the fender, one or two? Is the metal peeling off at the joint to the body the metal from the bulkhead/inner layer, or is it the outer fender layer? As a reference, this if the situation of the channel, surface rust, but how bad? Is there a way to better know without destroying? Maybe poke with a screwdriver? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Comments appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
Montreal914 |
Nov 6 2020, 12:50 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,700 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California |
Yesterday I received my sheet metal repair pieces, the cowl and rear top fender parts.
The cowl piece is pretty nice and I am still wondering what should be my best approach with this. I can keep as much original metal to the car and cut all up the repair panel to patch the various areas, Or cut straight across the car's cowl and install about half of the width of the repair piece. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Here are a few pictures of the cowl piece. Here we can see that hey could have been more generous on the front fold for the trunk seal. I will need to extend that lip a little. Last one showing the line where I could cut the new piece to repair the damaged sections of the car, otherwise, just use the left (car orientation) half of the repair piece and cut the car up. Moving on to the fender repair panel. This one is made for Auto Atlanta but is not the same quality as the cowl piece. The part was bent of hit or something as you can see. Also, the curved outside edge that will create the door gap is not folded. This will be a challenge (at least for me) to fold while creating the proper curve that will define the front top door gap. Definitely open to suggestions here... In this angle you can see the damaged area of the part which lifts up the back side of it... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) I would like to tackle the cowl repair this weekend, but before that, I need to decide how. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Open to comments/suggestions. Thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
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