Oil Catch Can? Options

[RolinkHaus]

Wondering if a Oil Catch Can is worth it?

How does it effect the cooling properties? Good possibility I will track the car in the future.

[GregAmy]

If you're putting anything 200TW or stickier on a Type 4 engine, you really need dry sump...

But, if you insist anyway, the tuna can isn't really enough volume for extended g-forces; you really need an extended sump.

http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Deep-Su...PN-RMIS300.html

I've got two of a different style I'm not likely to use, since the race car has a dry sump. The street car, which may see a TrackNight or two, is on Firehawk A/S tires...

[Charles Freeborn]

If you're putting anything 200TW or stickier on a Type 4 engine, you really need dry sump...

But, if you insist anyway, the tuna can isn't really enough volume for extended g-forces; you really need an extended sump.

http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Deep-Su...PN-RMIS300.html

I've got two of a different style I'm not likely to use, since the race car has a dry sump. The street car, which may see a TrackNight or two, is on Firehawk A/S tires...

Mine has an accusump. Agreed not as good as dry sump, but a step in the right direction.

[brant]

If you're putting anything 200TW or stickier on a Type 4 engine, you really need dry sump...

But, if you insist anyway, the tuna can isn't really enough volume for extended g-forces; you really need an extended sump.

http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Deep-Su...PN-RMIS300.html

I've got two of a different style I'm not likely to use, since the race car has a dry sump. The street car, which may see a TrackNight or two, is on Firehawk A/S tires...

Mine has an accusump. Agreed not as good as dry sump, but a step in the right direction.

I ran an accusump on a type 4 for around 10 years of wheel to wheel racing
they work fine... I never ran a dry sump -4 to compare to.

the tuna can is cheap and easy for Driver education or autox
I would not be concerned about using a tuna can alone on a track with less than dedicated race tires. Especially for someone just starting out, or Drivers Education type of setting.

the accusump is better on slick race tires and long sweeping corners

I ran a 2nd Oil pressure sender in the front trunk oil cooler system
with the 2nd warning light, you could see the pressure drop well before the factory sender ever warned.

you could easily see when you forgot to open the accusump, and the difference once it was opened.

they tend to blow valve cover gaskets... if you spin or kill the motor and dump too much oil into the block.

[Charles Freeborn]

If you're putting anything 200TW or stickier on a Type 4 engine, you really need dry sump...

But, if you insist anyway, the tuna can isn't really enough volume for extended g-forces; you really need an extended sump.

http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Deep-Su...PN-RMIS300.html

I've got two of a different style I'm not likely to use, since the race car has a dry sump. The street car, which may see a TrackNight or two, is on Firehawk A/S tires...

Mine has an accusump. Agreed not as good as dry sump, but a step in the right direction.

I ran an accusump on a type 4 for around 10 years of wheel to wheel racing
they work fine... I never ran a dry sump -4 to compare to.

the tuna can is cheap and easy for Driver education or autox
I would not be concerned about using a tuna can alone on a track with less than dedicated race tires. Especially for someone just starting out, or Drivers Education type of setting.

the accusump is better on slick race tires and long sweeping corners

I ran a 2nd Oil pressure sender in the front trunk oil cooler system
with the 2nd warning light, you could see the pressure drop well before the factory sender ever warned.

you could easily see when you forgot to open the accusump, and the difference once it was opened.

they tend to blow valve cover gaskets... if you spin or kill the motor and dump too much oil into the block.

Mine came with the car and is old. Pre-dates the current ownership of Accusump. It's got an electrically operated valve with a switch on the dash that I've wired to an indicator light. I pre-charge the pneumatic side of the sump to 10psi. At idle I leave the switch off. When I'm on track, engine warm I throw the switch. Theory is if the oil pressure drops below 10 the pneumatic charge pushes oil into the system. I have to remember to switch off while running and above the 10 psi to re-charge the sump with oil before switching off engine. In a spin or a stall it's unlikely that I'd remember...

The newer switch mechanisms have a warning light switch built in that notifies the driver when the sump valve is open. So far mine works so I'll run as is.







-C