Fuelpump rebuild: Bosch 0 580 463 009, Fuel pump - 1974 1.8 Options

[wonkipop]

think this is the right section of the website to put this in.
even though its a spanner job, the material is historic and possibly of esoteric industrial archeology interest. who knows?
1.

background.
i recently recommissioned my 74 1.8 after nearly 16 years of storage.
i paid for storing but i always knew i would. complete rebuild of fuel system.
we got the original fuel pump to come to life but it bled from every orifice.
flow rate was ok however and motor still worked fine - just a minor fire hazard.

2.
action.

to get the car up and running we took out the original 0 580 463 009 fuel pump and re-plumbed for a modern two port in line pump. car runs.
having done that, in some ways i felt the plumbing was a little compromised over the original given the pump needed to be repositioned to have a line in the back as well as out the front making the line out a pretty tight turn to get up into the engine bay. but it runs.

3.

delayed dream due to thoughts of it being a nightmare.
in the back of my mind was the idea of rebuilding the original fuel pump.
general consensus down here at the bottom of the world (aus) was don't bother, its a sealed unit and unserviceable.

4.

then. a young guy with a 1970 citroen DS21 IE inspired me. he had taken his similar bosch 3 port pump apart and rebuilt it proving its possible if you are determined enough.
i think the pump in the citroen was a 0 580 463 005, which the 009 replaced
not sure when the 009 came in, but its before the 010 (which is the completely different pump and fitted to the later 75 and 76 cars - amongst the first of the in line 2 port types). maybe the historians know exactly when 009 kicked in, i'm guessing it comes in with the L jetronic in 74 model year, but it could be earlier. externally a 005 is indistinguishable from a 009. i might have discovered the difference internally in what i have taken apart to date.

TAKING the 0 580 463 009 apart.

STEP 1.
undo the 4 screws securing the pump and outlet housing on top of the unit.
keep it all upright and vertical.
remove the top part of the housing.
remove the upper o-ring.
remove the metal pump vane and the five cylindrical magnets housed in it.
(bag them so you don't lose them - they seem to be weakly magnetic cylinders).
remove the vane housing.
remove the lower o-ring.

If your pump is only leaking from this upper housing its an easy fix.
just replace the two o-rings and put it all back together.

Don't need to post pics of this stuff its very simple to do.

the o-rings are 30x2mm i believe. could be 31x2mm. yet to confirm.
still to make the trip to the specialist o-ring shop here in melb aus.
i'll be looking to find the best fuel resistant o-rings i can get hold of.

suprisingly these o-rings were still in good shape in my pump and were not the source of the leaks. but i will be replacing them.

[wonkipop]

STEP 2.

Going further in.

The next job is to get the cylindrical motor housing off the lower part of the pump and port housing. Its crimped on. Its made of thick metal. You need to go at it carefully and patiently. You do not want to over distort it working the crimping loose. A little further down below where the crimps are there is located another o-ring seal internally that seals the motor housing to the port housing.

I used three tools. A very small pair of mult-grips. a small 7mm open ended spanner and a screwdriver i could fit into the slots on the upper port housing that engages with the crimping on the motor housing.

After i had the crimping opened up enough i used a chisel and a nylon headed hammer to work the upper housing out of the lower housing. to avoid distorting the lower housing i refitted the mounting clamp for the fuel pump to the housing and then clamped the feet of the mounting clamp in a vice.

i did all this very tentatively but i got it apart. it took me a couple of hours of delicate (possibly overly delicate) work. but it was the first time i had done this.

You have to be careful not to distort the motor housing down further where the o-ring seal locates internally. in photo you can see groove where o-ring sits. its ok to distort the very upper area of the housing getting the crimps out so long as you don't cause it to go out of round down where the seal is.

when you pull the motor out of the housing there will be some shims that fall off the end of the motor axle. these will probably be stuck to the internal magnets in the housing.
collect them up and bag them. there were four in this motor. don't lose them.