Fuelpump rebuild: Bosch 0 580 463 009, Fuel pump - 1974 1.8 Options

[wonkipop]

think this is the right section of the website to put this in.
even though its a spanner job, the material is historic and possibly of esoteric industrial archeology interest. who knows?
1.

background.
i recently recommissioned my 74 1.8 after nearly 16 years of storage.
i paid for storing but i always knew i would. complete rebuild of fuel system.
we got the original fuel pump to come to life but it bled from every orifice.
flow rate was ok however and motor still worked fine - just a minor fire hazard.

2.
action.

to get the car up and running we took out the original 0 580 463 009 fuel pump and re-plumbed for a modern two port in line pump. car runs.
having done that, in some ways i felt the plumbing was a little compromised over the original given the pump needed to be repositioned to have a line in the back as well as out the front making the line out a pretty tight turn to get up into the engine bay. but it runs.

3.

delayed dream due to thoughts of it being a nightmare.
in the back of my mind was the idea of rebuilding the original fuel pump.
general consensus down here at the bottom of the world (aus) was don't bother, its a sealed unit and unserviceable.

4.

then. a young guy with a 1970 citroen DS21 IE inspired me. he had taken his similar bosch 3 port pump apart and rebuilt it proving its possible if you are determined enough.
i think the pump in the citroen was a 0 580 463 005, which the 009 replaced
not sure when the 009 came in, but its before the 010 (which is the completely different pump and fitted to the later 75 and 76 cars - amongst the first of the in line 2 port types). maybe the historians know exactly when 009 kicked in, i'm guessing it comes in with the L jetronic in 74 model year, but it could be earlier. externally a 005 is indistinguishable from a 009. i might have discovered the difference internally in what i have taken apart to date.

TAKING the 0 580 463 009 apart.

STEP 1.
undo the 4 screws securing the pump and outlet housing on top of the unit.
keep it all upright and vertical.
remove the top part of the housing.
remove the upper o-ring.
remove the metal pump vane and the five cylindrical magnets housed in it.
(bag them so you don't lose them - they seem to be weakly magnetic cylinders).
remove the vane housing.
remove the lower o-ring.

If your pump is only leaking from this upper housing its an easy fix.
just replace the two o-rings and put it all back together.

Don't need to post pics of this stuff its very simple to do.

the o-rings are 30x2mm i believe. could be 31x2mm. yet to confirm.
still to make the trip to the specialist o-ring shop here in melb aus.
i'll be looking to find the best fuel resistant o-rings i can get hold of.

suprisingly these o-rings were still in good shape in my pump and were not the source of the leaks. but i will be replacing them.

[wonkipop]

REASSEMBLY - STEP 1.

now have correct electrical plug 0-ring and successful fit.
o-ring size amended in edit to list of o-rings above.
electrical plug = british standard 011. thk 1.78mm OD 11.21mm.



use CRC or o-ring grease to assist fitting plug into pump port base.
o ring sits in a groove in the plastic plug.
should not fill groove - groove allows for o-ring to expand sideways.
o-ring will fit exactly into an ariss recess around the front edge of the plug hole in the base as you push the plug in.
its a tight squeeze and awkward to apply pressure to.
i used the soft jaw vice and gentle horizontal pressure trick.
softly. a flat bladed screw driver used gently assists persuading it.
you can only get the screw driver in around half of the circumference of the plug.
so its mainly gentle pressure gets it to go in.
i wound vice on and off gently in a cycle to massage it on.
worked.



next step - bring earth wire in the plug snipped during disassembly into alignment for soldering. ideally you would overlap two portions of wire side by side to get a good joint. but there is no excess length of wire on the plug impossible to get overlap. so its a tricky solder job.



oldest pump (MERC) soldered best. tinned up straight away and was an easy join.
(higher content of copper in wire? superior merc spec?)

005 pump was hard to get to tin - took two attempts to get a successful join and a lot of tin drips.

009 pump (newest of the vintage) from the 914 was a b@stard.
but got it in the end after repeated failure.
not much copper content in wire?



clean out the bases with electrical cleaner and air hose.
ensure to get out lubricant traces and all solder drops.



more next time.