Fuelpump rebuild: Bosch 0 580 463 009, Fuel pump - 1974 1.8 Options

[wonkipop]

think this is the right section of the website to put this in.
even though its a spanner job, the material is historic and possibly of esoteric industrial archeology interest. who knows?
1.

background.
i recently recommissioned my 74 1.8 after nearly 16 years of storage.
i paid for storing but i always knew i would. complete rebuild of fuel system.
we got the original fuel pump to come to life but it bled from every orifice.
flow rate was ok however and motor still worked fine - just a minor fire hazard.

2.
action.

to get the car up and running we took out the original 0 580 463 009 fuel pump and re-plumbed for a modern two port in line pump. car runs.
having done that, in some ways i felt the plumbing was a little compromised over the original given the pump needed to be repositioned to have a line in the back as well as out the front making the line out a pretty tight turn to get up into the engine bay. but it runs.

3.

delayed dream due to thoughts of it being a nightmare.
in the back of my mind was the idea of rebuilding the original fuel pump.
general consensus down here at the bottom of the world (aus) was don't bother, its a sealed unit and unserviceable.

4.

then. a young guy with a 1970 citroen DS21 IE inspired me. he had taken his similar bosch 3 port pump apart and rebuilt it proving its possible if you are determined enough.
i think the pump in the citroen was a 0 580 463 005, which the 009 replaced
not sure when the 009 came in, but its before the 010 (which is the completely different pump and fitted to the later 75 and 76 cars - amongst the first of the in line 2 port types). maybe the historians know exactly when 009 kicked in, i'm guessing it comes in with the L jetronic in 74 model year, but it could be earlier. externally a 005 is indistinguishable from a 009. i might have discovered the difference internally in what i have taken apart to date.

TAKING the 0 580 463 009 apart.

STEP 1.
undo the 4 screws securing the pump and outlet housing on top of the unit.
keep it all upright and vertical.
remove the top part of the housing.
remove the upper o-ring.
remove the metal pump vane and the five cylindrical magnets housed in it.
(bag them so you don't lose them - they seem to be weakly magnetic cylinders).
remove the vane housing.
remove the lower o-ring.

If your pump is only leaking from this upper housing its an easy fix.
just replace the two o-rings and put it all back together.

Don't need to post pics of this stuff its very simple to do.

the o-rings are 30x2mm i believe. could be 31x2mm. yet to confirm.
still to make the trip to the specialist o-ring shop here in melb aus.
i'll be looking to find the best fuel resistant o-rings i can get hold of.

suprisingly these o-rings were still in good shape in my pump and were not the source of the leaks. but i will be replacing them.

[wonkipop]

STEP 3 - REASSEMBLING THE PORT HOUSING, MOTOR SHAFT & ARMATURE, OUTER PUMP HOUSING.




first. layout the components.
as i found out disassembling both a 009 pump from a 914, and a 005 pump from a 74 SAAB EMS,
each pump might be slightly differently shimmed internally.
it is important to take a photo or make a record of how many shims on each end of the motor shaft.
and to bag the shims separately.
you want to be able to put them all back the same way they were.
this ensures the brushes will align with the wear groove in the commutator.
(if you recondition the commutator and brushes then i believe this is less critical).

in the case of the 009 pump.

pump casing end of motor shaft.
there were 3 washer shims and a thicker shim or perhaps a better word would be bearing/bushing shim.
the bushing shim goes on the very end of the axle and fits against the pump housing in an axle recess.

port casing end of the 009 pump.
there was one bearing shim on the other end of the axle.
this fits against the internal side of the port housing where the axle passes through the port base housing.
(on the other side of the port housing the axle is secured with a very (VERY SMALL) pin.

first.
fit the o-ring to the port base housing.
o-ring seals the port base housing to the pump casing.
size = BS 135. 2.62mm thk 54.14mm OD.
lightly grease o-ring or spray CRC to stop it rolling when you fit up the pump casing.

next
fit the bushing washer to the port base housing end of the axle.
carefully fit the motor assembly to the port base housing.
you need to make sure no parts are snagging anywhere and that all wires have sufficient clearance.

next refit the pin that secures the axle shaft to the port base housing.
the pin also engages with the pump rotor and spins it to drive the pump.
this is easier said than done.
after a morning thinking about it,
trying to guide it in with needle nose pliers,
working on a large spread out towel to catch the pin
which would very easily fly out of the pliers (and be impossible to find if you lost it)
i gave up and rethought.

a fitment tool was made.
using a small piece of scrap flat bar steel strap.
drilled a 2mm diam hole - 1 mm in from edge and 4-5 mm deep.
this held the pin securely.
the tool with pin and the port base housing with motor fitted were placed in a vice.
the vice was used to gently push the tool with pin into the motor shaft pin hole.

it took two people to do this,
one to hold the assembly,
one to turn the vice -
smarter and more skilled people than me could probably get this together singlehandedly.
the pin was tapped the remaining distance in with the side of a screwdriver.
take care not to damage the surface of the port housing.
this is where the fuel pump vanes and rotor spin.

i did not take photos of the vice and pin tool.
too intense doing it to remember to take a picture.
having taken a pump apart and put it back together,
getting this pin out,
and then getting it back in is the most challenging part of the job.




with the pin in.
you can then reassemble the whole top port.
this has the pump rotor,
the five cylindrical pieces that fit between the rotor vanes,
2 o-rings. etc.
see disassembly photos.
after it is reassembled test turn it by rotating the motor.
make sure it does not catch during rotation.
i discovered the two o-ring seals are the things that provide correct clearance -
for the pump vane to rotate in housing.
(and also maybe to create correct pressure in the pump?).
had to get smaller thk. o-rings than first obtained.
(o-ring list has been edited to new size).

after port housing is fitted together then.
fit the three washers and bearing washer to the other end of the motor axle shaft.
in correct order.
(this number of shims applied to this particular pump).
secure the washers with grease.
otherwise the magnets inside the pump casing will tear the washer shims off -
as you try to feed the motor assembly into the casing.

i test assembled the motor assembly to the pump casing three times.
to assure myself the washers were not coming off on reassembly.
i put a very small amount of grease in the axle recess in the pump casing.
the grease was just for initial startup when the pump was activated again.
once i was sure the magnets were not tearing the washers off -
i went ahead with reassembly and pushed the casing down on the motor assembly.
assemble the whole thing vertically with the motor and port casing standing.
bring the pump casing down on it from above.







you assemble the pump casing to the port housing and motor upside down to how its shown in photo above. after you have the motor axle into the pump casing the washers and bushing washer can't come off the shaft and you can turn it around anyway you want and keep on pressing the casing on.