Fuelpump rebuild: Bosch 0 580 463 009, Fuel pump - 1974 1.8 |
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914/4: 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 914/6: 70 71 72
Fuelpump rebuild: Bosch 0 580 463 009, Fuel pump - 1974 1.8 |
wonkipop |
Dec 10 2020, 07:37 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,665 Joined: 6-May 20 From: north antarctica Member No.: 24,231 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
think this is the right section of the website to put this in.
even though its a spanner job, the material is historic and possibly of esoteric industrial archeology interest. who knows? 1. background. i recently recommissioned my 74 1.8 after nearly 16 years of storage. i paid for storing but i always knew i would. complete rebuild of fuel system. we got the original fuel pump to come to life but it bled from every orifice. flow rate was ok however and motor still worked fine - just a minor fire hazard. 2. action. to get the car up and running we took out the original 0 580 463 009 fuel pump and re-plumbed for a modern two port in line pump. car runs. having done that, in some ways i felt the plumbing was a little compromised over the original given the pump needed to be repositioned to have a line in the back as well as out the front making the line out a pretty tight turn to get up into the engine bay. but it runs. 3. delayed dream due to thoughts of it being a nightmare. in the back of my mind was the idea of rebuilding the original fuel pump. general consensus down here at the bottom of the world (aus) was don't bother, its a sealed unit and unserviceable. 4. then. a young guy with a 1970 citroen DS21 IE inspired me. he had taken his similar bosch 3 port pump apart and rebuilt it proving its possible if you are determined enough. i think the pump in the citroen was a 0 580 463 005, which the 009 replaced not sure when the 009 came in, but its before the 010 (which is the completely different pump and fitted to the later 75 and 76 cars - amongst the first of the in line 2 port types). maybe the historians know exactly when 009 kicked in, i'm guessing it comes in with the L jetronic in 74 model year, but it could be earlier. externally a 005 is indistinguishable from a 009. i might have discovered the difference internally in what i have taken apart to date. TAKING the 0 580 463 009 apart. STEP 1. undo the 4 screws securing the pump and outlet housing on top of the unit. keep it all upright and vertical. remove the top part of the housing. remove the upper o-ring. remove the metal pump vane and the five cylindrical magnets housed in it. (bag them so you don't lose them - they seem to be weakly magnetic cylinders). remove the vane housing. remove the lower o-ring. If your pump is only leaking from this upper housing its an easy fix. just replace the two o-rings and put it all back together. Don't need to post pics of this stuff its very simple to do. the o-rings are 30x2mm i believe. could be 31x2mm. yet to confirm. still to make the trip to the specialist o-ring shop here in melb aus. i'll be looking to find the best fuel resistant o-rings i can get hold of. suprisingly these o-rings were still in good shape in my pump and were not the source of the leaks. but i will be replacing them. |
wonkipop |
Feb 19 2021, 03:25 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,665 Joined: 6-May 20 From: north antarctica Member No.: 24,231 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
STEP 4
re-crimping the pump casing to the port/pump base. another one of those moments thinking too much about how to do it. did not want to use a screwdriver and hammer as it would be too sharp? searched around the workshop for a piece of scrap metal. found a scrap of steel bar strap - was the correct width to fit the crimping recesses machined into the port/pump base. i fitted the original pump mounting bracket to the pump casing. clamped the feet of the pump mounting bracket into the vice. i could use a screwdriver to loosen and tighten the pump bracket - and spin the pump casing around to crimp each point in the pump casing. used a hammer and steel bar to gently work the crimping back in again. finished off the last bit of the crimping with a sturdy screw driver and hammer. pump all back together and ready to test. we used kerosine to test the pump. has similar if not identical viscosity to petrol fuel. has none of the harmful additives that will foul a pump if you leave it on the shelf after testing. the kerosine has similar lubricating properties to fuel - so the pump will not chew up bushings, shims etc or run hot during testing. with these pumps the fuel is providing both cooling and lubrication during operation. on the first test the pump ran. spun up straight away. but no suction and nothing was coming out of the delivery port. after a bit more coaxing and attempts to prime it began to blow fuel out of the pressure relief port. achieved weak suction feed. i stared at the three port assembly at the top of the pump and thought to myself. you have been real optimistic thinking that bit does not need to be disassembled and cleaned out. packed up the tools. job for another day. |
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