Fuelpump rebuild: Bosch 0 580 463 009, Fuel pump - 1974 1.8 Options

[wonkipop]

think this is the right section of the website to put this in.
even though its a spanner job, the material is historic and possibly of esoteric industrial archeology interest. who knows?
1.

background.
i recently recommissioned my 74 1.8 after nearly 16 years of storage.
i paid for storing but i always knew i would. complete rebuild of fuel system.
we got the original fuel pump to come to life but it bled from every orifice.
flow rate was ok however and motor still worked fine - just a minor fire hazard.

2.
action.

to get the car up and running we took out the original 0 580 463 009 fuel pump and re-plumbed for a modern two port in line pump. car runs.
having done that, in some ways i felt the plumbing was a little compromised over the original given the pump needed to be repositioned to have a line in the back as well as out the front making the line out a pretty tight turn to get up into the engine bay. but it runs.

3.

delayed dream due to thoughts of it being a nightmare.
in the back of my mind was the idea of rebuilding the original fuel pump.
general consensus down here at the bottom of the world (aus) was don't bother, its a sealed unit and unserviceable.

4.

then. a young guy with a 1970 citroen DS21 IE inspired me. he had taken his similar bosch 3 port pump apart and rebuilt it proving its possible if you are determined enough.
i think the pump in the citroen was a 0 580 463 005, which the 009 replaced
not sure when the 009 came in, but its before the 010 (which is the completely different pump and fitted to the later 75 and 76 cars - amongst the first of the in line 2 port types). maybe the historians know exactly when 009 kicked in, i'm guessing it comes in with the L jetronic in 74 model year, but it could be earlier. externally a 005 is indistinguishable from a 009. i might have discovered the difference internally in what i have taken apart to date.

TAKING the 0 580 463 009 apart.

STEP 1.
undo the 4 screws securing the pump and outlet housing on top of the unit.
keep it all upright and vertical.
remove the top part of the housing.
remove the upper o-ring.
remove the metal pump vane and the five cylindrical magnets housed in it.
(bag them so you don't lose them - they seem to be weakly magnetic cylinders).
remove the vane housing.
remove the lower o-ring.

If your pump is only leaking from this upper housing its an easy fix.
just replace the two o-rings and put it all back together.

Don't need to post pics of this stuff its very simple to do.

the o-rings are 30x2mm i believe. could be 31x2mm. yet to confirm.
still to make the trip to the specialist o-ring shop here in melb aus.
i'll be looking to find the best fuel resistant o-rings i can get hold of.

suprisingly these o-rings were still in good shape in my pump and were not the source of the leaks. but i will be replacing them.

[wonkipop]

STEP 5 - PUMP 3 PORT TOP SECTION.

the next day.
the pump 3 port casing was taken apart.
here is what is inside.
when you take it apart record the orientation and fit of all the components.

take care when you remove the metal end cap as it may all fly apart.
use fine picks to prise the crimps out of the metal cap.
springs will shoot out and fly off to destinations unknown.
the 009 was so gummed up the springs did not shoot out.
the 005 came apart like a moon rocket going into orbit.

i am still trying to think how this thing actually works.
but given i got it to work again, do i really care?

pressure relief in the pump is somehow accomplished by the small valve restrained in position by a spring.
this valve must be able to move freely when you lever it with a screw driver.
it should instantly spring back into position.

i thought i had checked it for operation prior to having to pull it all apart.
and it did work, but not like it works now properly cleaned.
returns to position with a very positive click.

the other item that required replacement was yet another o-ring.
required a mid morning drive through congested post lockdown traffic to the o-ring suppliers.
took the parts down with me to get the right fit the first time and get some alternatives just in case.
did not remember to note down the size of the o-ring.
will measure it later and post the size required.
o-ring fits in the metal cap at the end of the port casing.

the metal cap on the port casing has to be decrimped for disassembly.
take care as its very thin tin.




reassemble the whole thing after cleaning and fitting of new o-ring.
when i refitted the pressure valve assembly cap i rotated it slightly from its original position.
i could crimp it back on using undistorted metal.
its very thin - like paper.
crimping was done with a few taps from a small screwdriver.
take care doing this as the metal is so thin it can easily tear.

reassembly can be done in a vice.
you have to hold it all together with one hand against the pressure of the springs.
get it into the vice then carefully compress it in position.
(use a socket over the cap so the broader rim is in compression, not the cap, i made this mistake on the first pump i reassembled).
once restrained you can work your way around the cap and crimp it back on.
if you position it in the vice to do the bottom two crimps this will be enough to hold it together to spin it in the vice and do the top crimp.

all back together.