Fuelpump rebuild: Bosch 0 580 463 009, Fuel pump - 1974 1.8 Options

[wonkipop]

think this is the right section of the website to put this in.
even though its a spanner job, the material is historic and possibly of esoteric industrial archeology interest. who knows?
1.

background.
i recently recommissioned my 74 1.8 after nearly 16 years of storage.
i paid for storing but i always knew i would. complete rebuild of fuel system.
we got the original fuel pump to come to life but it bled from every orifice.
flow rate was ok however and motor still worked fine - just a minor fire hazard.

2.
action.

to get the car up and running we took out the original 0 580 463 009 fuel pump and re-plumbed for a modern two port in line pump. car runs.
having done that, in some ways i felt the plumbing was a little compromised over the original given the pump needed to be repositioned to have a line in the back as well as out the front making the line out a pretty tight turn to get up into the engine bay. but it runs.

3.

delayed dream due to thoughts of it being a nightmare.
in the back of my mind was the idea of rebuilding the original fuel pump.
general consensus down here at the bottom of the world (aus) was don't bother, its a sealed unit and unserviceable.

4.

then. a young guy with a 1970 citroen DS21 IE inspired me. he had taken his similar bosch 3 port pump apart and rebuilt it proving its possible if you are determined enough.
i think the pump in the citroen was a 0 580 463 005, which the 009 replaced
not sure when the 009 came in, but its before the 010 (which is the completely different pump and fitted to the later 75 and 76 cars - amongst the first of the in line 2 port types). maybe the historians know exactly when 009 kicked in, i'm guessing it comes in with the L jetronic in 74 model year, but it could be earlier. externally a 005 is indistinguishable from a 009. i might have discovered the difference internally in what i have taken apart to date.

TAKING the 0 580 463 009 apart.

STEP 1.
undo the 4 screws securing the pump and outlet housing on top of the unit.
keep it all upright and vertical.
remove the top part of the housing.
remove the upper o-ring.
remove the metal pump vane and the five cylindrical magnets housed in it.
(bag them so you don't lose them - they seem to be weakly magnetic cylinders).
remove the vane housing.
remove the lower o-ring.

If your pump is only leaking from this upper housing its an easy fix.
just replace the two o-rings and put it all back together.

Don't need to post pics of this stuff its very simple to do.

the o-rings are 30x2mm i believe. could be 31x2mm. yet to confirm.
still to make the trip to the specialist o-ring shop here in melb aus.
i'll be looking to find the best fuel resistant o-rings i can get hold of.

suprisingly these o-rings were still in good shape in my pump and were not the source of the leaks. but i will be replacing them.

[wonkipop]

epilogue -

i was given a bosch 0580 960 004 fuel pump predating the 005 unit i had from a 74 SAAB and my own 009 unit from the 74 1.8.

this pump originally came out of a VW type 3 FI fastback. D jet.
it had 72 written on it in paint.
so i assume that was the model year.
slightly different set of serial numbers - 960 instead of 463, but specs for flow/pressure must be similar as its for VW D Jet.
it had been left in a shed for at least 30 years and not stored properly.

i opened it up to see what state it was in - assuming it was kaput big time.

its of the type i have seen before in images.
full shrouds around the electric motor armature.
which i think of as turbulence shrouds.
(but could also be around ideas of spark arresting? - i don't really know, but these shrouds are dropped by the time of the 005 and later units.

the pump itself was stuffed with corrosion jambing up the roller cell vane.
digging in deeper most of the electric motor portion was still in reasonable condition with some surface corrosion. not that much wear on the commutator and brushes, so good for parts or if i feel like it building up into yet another spare if i could find a good port section. (for free of course because none of these pumps are worth buying).

interestingly i found another difference in the earlier to later pumps.
in the pressure relief valve section of the pump port assembly they arrangement of the springs is altered. the earlier version has the small check valve spring separated from the pressure relief spring by a little washer or spring seat. so the normal pressure, check valve spring fully compresses (theorectically) before it pushes the main pressure relief spring. in the later pumps the two springs simply sit inside each other and both compress against the aluminium end cap. in the later pumps when the check valve spring is half compressed the little sliding valve then engages with the pressure relief spring and then it is compressed to relieve fuel into the return port.

interesting how they continue to improve and modify this pump design and its mostly by leaving things out as they go and making it simpler.

i can see why they might have started to delete the little seat between the two springs as it would cause the springs to act in unison which might be unpredictable compared to one spring acting on its own as a first stage and then there is a clear moment where the pressure relief spring is engaged and it compresses.

more anachronistic and useless information, maybe helpful to anyone silly enough to be interested in restoring technology along with interior and exterior decor and finishes.