Blue light special from amazon, for those wanting 12V A/C system. |
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Blue light special from amazon, for those wanting 12V A/C system. |
ahycaramba |
Jul 19 2021, 11:37 AM
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#1
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“I live my life a quarter mile at a time.” Group: Members Posts: 161 Joined: 17-March 15 From: Murrieta, California Member No.: 18,534 Region Association: Southern California |
Hello amigos,
Just passing along my findings in hopes to help anyone looking to add air condition to their vehicle without robbing HP. I found an affordable 12 volt AC compressor on Amazon. Here the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09661D1ZY/ref |
GregAmy |
Jul 19 2021, 02:00 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,412 Joined: 22-February 13 From: Middletown CT Member No.: 15,565 Region Association: North East States |
The only way you could possibly get something "free" out of this is to manage the alternator charge during specific periods, by recovering energy in a different way.
For example, you could install a big-ass battery and a total discharge controller such as at the below link, allowing your battery to be deep-cycled during normal use, then design a system such that it will only high-charge the battery during off-throttle loads such as deceleration. In this manner, you maintain battery voltage to drive the car without loading it, and then use the alternator to recover that energy during off-throttle instead of wasting heat energy from the brakes. It's the same idea that "hybrid" cars use to recoer energy and get better fuel economy. https://raceenergyperformance.com/collectio...products/tdc-30 But let's face reality here: we're talking half-century old vintage cars, used for fun and part-time pleasure, and by the time you engineer and install these systems you may want to take a step back and think to yourself "why...?" But to each his own. Greg P.S. that system is used often in our race cars to manage voltage in EFI systems when you don't want to run an alternator. Even basic EFI/ignition/pump loads will take 3-5 hp from a typical engine; I can't imagine what 45A would do. |
rgalla9146 |
Jul 19 2021, 02:25 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,671 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Paramus NJ Member No.: 5,176 Region Association: None |
The only way you could possibly get something "free" out of this is to manage the alternator charge during specific periods, by recovering energy in a different way. For example, you could install a big-ass battery and a total discharge controller such as at the below link, allowing your battery to be deep-cycled during normal use, then design a system such that it will only high-charge the battery during off-throttle loads such as deceleration. In this manner, you maintain battery voltage to drive the car without loading it, and then use the alternator to recover that energy during off-throttle instead of wasting heat energy from the brakes. It's the same idea that "hybrid" cars use to recoer energy and get better fuel economy. https://raceenergyperformance.com/collectio...products/tdc-30 But let's face reality here: we're talking half-century old vintage cars, used for fun and part-time pleasure, and by the time you engineer and install these systems you may want to take a step back and think to yourself "why...?" But to each his own. Greg P.S. that system is used often in our race cars to manage voltage in EFI systems when you don't want to run an alternator. Even basic EFI/ignition/pump loads will take 3-5 hp from a typical engine; I can't imagine what 45A would do. I don't know what output is available from special 4 cyl. alternators but there are 150 amp units available for 911 engines.....is that enough to support a 45 amp draw ? |
Steve |
Jul 19 2021, 02:49 PM
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#4
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,765 Joined: 14-June 03 From: Orange County, CA Member No.: 822 Region Association: Southern California |
The only way you could possibly get something "free" out of this is to manage the alternator charge during specific periods, by recovering energy in a different way. For example, you could install a big-ass battery and a total discharge controller such as at the below link, allowing your battery to be deep-cycled during normal use, then design a system such that it will only high-charge the battery during off-throttle loads such as deceleration. In this manner, you maintain battery voltage to drive the car without loading it, and then use the alternator to recover that energy during off-throttle instead of wasting heat energy from the brakes. It's the same idea that "hybrid" cars use to recoer energy and get better fuel economy. https://raceenergyperformance.com/collectio...products/tdc-30 But let's face reality here: we're talking half-century old vintage cars, used for fun and part-time pleasure, and by the time you engineer and install these systems you may want to take a step back and think to yourself "why...?" But to each his own. Greg P.S. that system is used often in our race cars to manage voltage in EFI systems when you don't want to run an alternator. Even basic EFI/ignition/pump loads will take 3-5 hp from a typical engine; I can't imagine what 45A would do. I don't know what output is available from special 4 cyl. alternators but there are 150 amp units available for 911 engines.....is that enough to support a 45 amp draw ? Lots of variables... What is the total draw of everything running at the same time? i.e. lights, stereo, etc. Plus for instance the 3.2 six has a 90 amp alternator, but at idle while stuck in traffic, it does not put out 90 amps, so you could be draining the battery. Classic Retrofit recommends the 175 amp alternator, since it can supply high current at idle. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/WSPL...SI=804&fs=0 |
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