Rust repair before paint, The quest for solid metal in the driver side Long - 73 narrow body/4 rebuild thread |
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Rust repair before paint, The quest for solid metal in the driver side Long - 73 narrow body/4 rebuild thread |
Montreal914 |
Oct 24 2020, 05:59 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,700 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California |
Edit: I might as well make this my rebuild thread...
Original post; I got side tracked on my Microsquirt build as I have decided, after 11 years of ownership, to finally get my car painted to get her ready for her upcoming 50th birthday. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Knowing these endeavors can take a lot more time than initially planned, I hope to make it in time... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) Originally bahia red 73 1.7. The goal is a narrow body 2056 Microsquirt, VW Tornado red, 5 lugs conversion with 16" Fuchs. Front: 914-4 A arms with rubber bushings, 911 3" pin struts, Bilstein inserts, Alfa Brembo, vented rotor, stock torsion bar, 19mm sway bar, turbo tie rods, and 19mm master cylinder. Rear: Drilled hubs, But before I get the pleasure of installing all of these beautiful fresh goodies, I need to tackle the not so fun stuff... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I have already started fixing some of the rust issues and will share that progress in the near future but right now, I wanted to post some of the issues i have on the passenger side front fender. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I have searched and read many of the builds here but I would like some inputs from the people who have gone through this mess. I am trying to understand the construction of the rear part of the fender, more precisely the area joining the front cowling. Below is a sketch of how I think it is made but i would like someone to confirm... Having removed the seam sealer in the upper rear area, I have discovered "this" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) which is not really unusual, but clearly a pain to fix. I am not sure though what I am looking at. If my sketch is correct, I guess the inner rusted layer is from the fender rear bulkhead that actually becomes an inner layer on the rear upper point of the fender by the door and cowling junction. I might be able to cut this from the underside preventing me from cutting the outer surface of the fender. But I would like to better understand what is happening at the junction to the body. How many layers are there from the fender, one or two? Is the metal peeling off at the joint to the body the metal from the bulkhead/inner layer, or is it the outer fender layer? As a reference, this if the situation of the channel, surface rust, but how bad? Is there a way to better know without destroying? Maybe poke with a screwdriver? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Comments appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
Montreal914 |
Dec 12 2021, 06:18 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,700 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California |
Between the filter/thermostat assembly and the front cooler, I plan on routing the lines along the outside of the passenger long. About 10 years ago, I fitted the car with a Brad Mayer reinforcement kit which actually butts in on the back side of the tapered box in the front of the long. Since it sits away from the outer long of about 3/8", it is obstructing some of the box' backside preventing me from drilling holes large enough to run the lines through the box à la Elephant racing hard lines. Therefore I had to create a channel in the box to make room for the lines.
Here is the box with the reinforcement kit butting on its back side: Now the box has been opened up with the removal of the lower front corner that was rusted: Patching the corner: And now putting back the lower front part of the box leaving a trench for the lines to go through: Finally, after shaping the trench from a flat sheet, I closed up the box to keep some structure integrity. Shown here with my line mockup: Next, the jack point pyramid had to be trimmed for the same purpose. This pyramid is part of Brad Mayer's kit and is made of thick steel: At this point the path is clear to run the oil lines along the passenger side longitudinal beam. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
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