Rust repair before paint, The quest for solid metal in the driver side Long - 73 narrow body/4 rebuild thread Options

[Montreal914]

Edit: I might as well make this my rebuild thread...

Original post; I got side tracked on my Microsquirt build as I have decided, after 11 years of ownership, to finally get my car painted to get her ready for her upcoming 50th birthday. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Knowing these endeavors can take a lot more time than initially planned, I hope to make it in time... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

Originally bahia red 73 1.7. The goal is a narrow body 2056 Microsquirt, VW Tornado red, 5 lugs conversion with 16" Fuchs.
Front: 914-4 A arms with rubber bushings, 911 3" pin struts, Bilstein inserts, Alfa Brembo, vented rotor, stock torsion bar, 19mm sway bar, turbo tie rods, and 19mm master cylinder.
Rear: Drilled hubs, 914 PMB stock calipers edit: 914-6 calipers replica, 914-6 solid rear rotors, 140lbs springs, stock sway bar, rubber bushings.

But before I get the pleasure of installing all of these beautiful fresh goodies, I need to tackle the not so fun stuff... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I have already started fixing some of the rust issues and will share that progress in the near future but right now, I wanted to post some of the issues i have on the passenger side front fender. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I have searched and read many of the builds here but I would like some inputs from the people who have gone through this mess.

I am trying to understand the construction of the rear part of the fender, more precisely the area joining the front cowling.

Below is a sketch of how I think it is made but i would like someone to confirm...



Having removed the seam sealer in the upper rear area, I have discovered "this" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) which is not really unusual, but clearly a pain to fix. I am not sure though what I am looking at. If my sketch is correct, I guess the inner rusted layer is from the fender rear bulkhead that actually becomes an inner layer on the rear upper point of the fender by the door and cowling junction.





I might be able to cut this from the underside preventing me from cutting the outer surface of the fender. But I would like to better understand what is happening at the junction to the body.
How many layers are there from the fender, one or two?
Is the metal peeling off at the joint to the body the metal from the bulkhead/inner layer, or is it the outer fender layer?

As a reference, this if the situation of the channel, surface rust, but how bad? Is there a way to better know without destroying? Maybe poke with a screwdriver? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)



Comments appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Montreal914]

Although I could have elected to use steel braded lines or rubber hoses, I really like the idea of having rigid oil lines. Being on a tight budget, I studies my options and decided to use aluminum 5052-0, 3/4" x 0.049" tube from Aircraft Spruce. These come in 6 foot length and cost $39 ea. They also sell the -12 AN flared tube sleeve and nuts for them at very reasonable price (~4$ ea). Total material cost ~$105! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)

Since I am not in business of bending tube, I got a cheap 3/4" tube bender on ebay for $38 and was ready to get crafty. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) After very carefully studying the path I wanted to take, I started bending, knowing there wasn't any room for error since I was going to need the entire 6 feet to go from the back to the front.

First bend:


Without being perfect, I was actually pleased with the result that this $38 toll was giving:


After a few hours of trial fit and bending, I was making encouraging progress. The thickness of the Brad Mayer panels allowed me to drill and tap M6 holes to mount the Abel style SS clamps (Amazon $11):


Details of the back end:


Then I fabricated a rear support that will use one of the two engine mount bracket bolt:


The last few steps were to complete the ends. This mean trimming the length on the back end and bending the front end upwards in the fender well. Last, obviously install the AN fittings and flare the end of the lines. For this I was fortunate enough to borrow a 37degree flaring tool from a friend.

Result once flared:




And the final pre-installation with fitting and mounts. I plan on fabricating a front support to hold the lines at the junction with the flexible lines. The front mount should serve two purpose: supporting the end of the rigid lines and being an anchor point for a partial fender liner to protect the lines from flying road debris.


Inner fender area:


And finally, the back end with the mockup connection to the filter/thermostat assembly:


And there you have it! My $115 rigid oil lines! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)