Rust repair before paint, The quest for solid metal in the driver side Long - 73 narrow body/4 rebuild thread |
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Rust repair before paint, The quest for solid metal in the driver side Long - 73 narrow body/4 rebuild thread |
Montreal914 |
Oct 24 2020, 05:59 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,700 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California |
Edit: I might as well make this my rebuild thread...
Original post; I got side tracked on my Microsquirt build as I have decided, after 11 years of ownership, to finally get my car painted to get her ready for her upcoming 50th birthday. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Knowing these endeavors can take a lot more time than initially planned, I hope to make it in time... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) Originally bahia red 73 1.7. The goal is a narrow body 2056 Microsquirt, VW Tornado red, 5 lugs conversion with 16" Fuchs. Front: 914-4 A arms with rubber bushings, 911 3" pin struts, Bilstein inserts, Alfa Brembo, vented rotor, stock torsion bar, 19mm sway bar, turbo tie rods, and 19mm master cylinder. Rear: Drilled hubs, But before I get the pleasure of installing all of these beautiful fresh goodies, I need to tackle the not so fun stuff... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I have already started fixing some of the rust issues and will share that progress in the near future but right now, I wanted to post some of the issues i have on the passenger side front fender. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I have searched and read many of the builds here but I would like some inputs from the people who have gone through this mess. I am trying to understand the construction of the rear part of the fender, more precisely the area joining the front cowling. Below is a sketch of how I think it is made but i would like someone to confirm... Having removed the seam sealer in the upper rear area, I have discovered "this" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) which is not really unusual, but clearly a pain to fix. I am not sure though what I am looking at. If my sketch is correct, I guess the inner rusted layer is from the fender rear bulkhead that actually becomes an inner layer on the rear upper point of the fender by the door and cowling junction. I might be able to cut this from the underside preventing me from cutting the outer surface of the fender. But I would like to better understand what is happening at the junction to the body. How many layers are there from the fender, one or two? Is the metal peeling off at the joint to the body the metal from the bulkhead/inner layer, or is it the outer fender layer? As a reference, this if the situation of the channel, surface rust, but how bad? Is there a way to better know without destroying? Maybe poke with a screwdriver? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Comments appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
Montreal914 |
Apr 8 2022, 07:14 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,700 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California |
Time to add some of the progress... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
Believe it or not, my car upon previous ownership was equipped with an alarm system (ok), power lock (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) , and not one, or two, but three individual speakers in each door! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) So below is the result of the bastardization done by one of these too many stereo shop that shouldn't be allowed working on ANY car... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif) I guess the logical thing to do would be looking for a good set of doors, but who said restoring a 914 was a logical thing... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) Anyhow, for some reason, I preferred giving a new life to the car's original doors, than getting another set (don't try to find the logic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) )... So in comes Bruce Stone @bdstone914 to the rescue! Bruce had a set of heavily damaged door on the outside but un-messed with on the inside (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) . And so the patch work begins! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Donner door: First step, repair the opening "created" for the power lock actuator. I cut that area out of the donner door while keeping half of the nearby holes as reference for positioning and prepping the car's door. Seems to be fitting well! Now nicely cut the door to fit the piece. Finally, weld in place. Now ready to tackle the large piece! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) Same concept, first cut a rough piece out of the donner door. Then trim down to what I wanted. Trace on the car's door and cut excess to make it clean, fit, once, twice, nineteen times... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Then weld in place. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Rince and repeat for all the areas and you get this! A door with character (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Next, the other door... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
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