Sheared off bolt head, Front axle Options

[vitamin914]

While reading the thread about 4" hole under the gas tank and the protective cover for the steering rack I decided to get under mine to see if I need the protective cover. Yes, I do, and I found something I did not expect a sheared-off bolt head. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

See photos.

Right side ok, left side not so good. No clue what caused it was but it is painted over and not fresh - (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) must have existed when I bought the car.

I know this is not correct and needs to be fixed. I don't know what these supports are holding but I suspect it is the front axle.

Is it dangerous? How urgent should it be? Anyone have a feel for the difficulty in removing that sheared bolt?

[euro911]

Drill a hole in the center & use an 'EASY-OUT' to get the remnant out, then replace the bolt.

[Superhawk996]

Drill a hole in the center & use an 'EASY-OUT' to get the remnant out, then replace the bolt.

No . . . no . . . no. That is not what Easy Outs are for. Please don't do this. Trust me I've learned this via the school of hard knocks too many times.

If the fastener is corroded enough to have the head has sheared off - you will not get it out with an Easy Out. You'll probably make it worse. If you break the EZ Out off in the bolt, you're seriously limiting your options on what you can do down the road as a "next" fix after the EZ out breaks. There is not a decent hand drill in the world that will touch it once the EZ out is broken off in the bolt.

Unless you have access to a Welder and a well equipped shop, I'd take it to someone that is equipped to deal with this.

Better method without a welder:

1) Saturate well for days in advance with PB Blaster.

2) Square off the bolt head. Locate dead center. Center Punch it. Then drill it with a LEFT Hand Drill bit. That might very well spin it out. If it doesn't the EZ wouldn't have done it either.

3) Keep drilling with LEFT hand drill bits removing more and more material from center of the bolt.

4) Eventually you'll be able to pick / chisel any of that last bolt remnants out - assuming it hasn't backed out with the left hand drilling.

5) Clean the hole with proper tap.
5a) Even if you screw this up and didn't drill perfectly on center and/or drill too much of the original threads out, you're still in a decent position to use a Timesert or Helicoil as a backup plan.


Other method I'd use 1st but requires a welder:
Weld a hex nut to the stub of the bolt sticking out. Usually the heat of welding combined with a welded on Hex nut will all the bolt to come out.

Even if this fails, you can still revert to the left hand drill method above.

PS - When I bought my car it came to me with the very same fastener sheared off & thoroughly corroded in there. The head is sheared off for a reason.

Absolute worst case:
Restoration design sells this mount. Again, it will require cutting out the old one and welding in the new one. I guess this could also be the fix if you decide to go the EZ-Out method and it breaks off!

Why you should HATE EZ outs:
An EZ out applies OUTWARD compressive forces into the bolt shank as it tries to dig deeper into the bolt. This is exactly what you don't want. That compression is basically acting to wedge the bolt even more firmly into the tapped hole. EZ-outs are also made of very hard steel. That means brittle. They are very easy to fracture off in the bolt. Once this happens the only thing that will touch an EZ out is Electrical Discharge Machining (EDM) and that can't be done on the car.

[vitamin914]

Drill a hole in the center & use an 'EASY-OUT' to get the remnant out, then replace the bolt.

No . . . no . . . no. That is not what Easy Outs are for. Please don't do this. Trust me I've learned this via the school of hard knocks too many times.

If the fastener is corroded enough to have the head has sheared off - you will not get it out with an Easy Out. You'll probably make it worse. If you break the EZ Out off in the bolt, you're seriously limiting your options on what you can do down the road as a "next" fix after the EZ out breaks. There is not a decent hand drill in the world that will touch it once the EZ out is broken off in the bolt.

Unless you have access to a Welder and a well equipped shop, I'd take it to someone that is equipped to deal with this.

Better method without a welder:

1) Saturate well for days in advance with PB Blaster.

2) Square off the bolt head. Locate dead center. Center Punch it. Then drill it with a LEFT Hand Drill bit. That might very well spin it out. If it doesn't the EZ wouldn't have done it either.

3) Keep drilling with LEFT hand drill bits removing more and more material from center of the bolt.

4) Eventually you'll be able to pick / chisel any of that last bolt remnants out - assuming it hasn't backed out with the left hand drilling.

5) Clean the hole with proper tap.
5a) Even if you screw this up and didn't drill perfectly on center and/or drill too much of the original threads out, you're still in a decent position to use a Timesert or Helicoil as a backup plan.


Other method I'd use 1st but requires a welder:
Weld a hex nut to the stub of the bolt sticking out. Usually the heat of welding combined with a welded on Hex nut will all the bolt to come out.

Even if this fails, you can still revert to the left hand drill method above.

PS - When I bought my car it came to me with the very same fastener sheared off & thoroughly corroded in there. The head is sheared off for a reason.

Absolute worst case:
Restoration design sells this mount. Again, it will require cutting out the old one and welding in the new one. I guess this could also be the fix if you decide to go the EZ-Out method and it breaks off!

Why you should HATE EZ outs:
An EZ out applies OUTWARD compressive forces into the bolt shank as it tries to dig deeper into the bolt. This is exactly what you don't want. That compression is basically acting to wedge the bolt even more firmly into the tapped hole. EZ-outs are also made of very hard steel. That means brittle. They are very easy to fracture off in the bolt. Once this happens the only thing that will touch an EZ out is Electrical Discharge Machining (EDM) and that can't be done on the car.

@Superhawk996

I have both TIG and MIG. I also have a plasma torch - but I don't even want think of having to go there.

I am trying to avoid taking off the crossmember. My plan is to get a nut and turn down one end so that it fits inside the crossmember clearance hole, then MIG weld inside the nut.

Any idea what the replacement bolt size is? M10x20?

And just a guess... does the rack and pinion cover that I'll get from Resoration Design mount with these same bolts?

[Superhawk996]

My plan is to get a nut and turn down one end so that it fits inside the crossmember clearance hole, then MIG weld inside the nut.

Good Plan! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)