Keys by code Options

[TheCabinetmaker]

914 locks. com is now making keys by code

If you don't have the code, l can make a key by the wafer sequence

Price is $65.00 and includes a black oem key.

Extra cut keys (including red valet keys) are available at $45.00 each.

Generic cut keys are $15.00 each.

Blank oem keys are $30.00 each

Contact me at cbntmkr at (@) gmail.com for more info.

[bbrock]

If you have a door or ignition tumbler out, you can get your code by reading the wafer numbers from shoulder to tip. The numbers are stamped on the wafers. There is a great technical article on re-keying locks here. And here is a thread discussing reading the code. It worked for me.

The reason you can't use trunk or glove box keys to get the code is because they will have a valet wafer randomly placed somewhere in the cylinder which will leave you with a missing digit on your code.

BTW, Curt's service is a screaming deal compared to what I spent buying genuine key blanks from Porsche and having a local locksmith cut them by code.

[TheCabinetmaker]

If you have a door or ignition tumbler out, you can get your code by reading the wafer numbers from shoulder to tip. The numbers are stamped on the wafers. There is a great technical article on re-keying locks here. And here is a thread discussing reading the code. It worked for me.

The reason you can't use trunk or glove box keys to get the code is because they will have a valet wafer randomly placed somewhere in the cylinder which will leave you with a missing digit on your code.

BTW, Curt's service is a screaming deal compared to what I spent buying genuine key blanks from Porsche and having a local locksmith cut them by code.

The valet wafer replaces the # 2 wafer, so the code can be found that way. Not all wafers are stamped. I measure every wafer to make sure it's in tolerance with factory wafer sizes.

[lesorubcheek]

If you have a door or ignition tumbler out, you can get your code by reading the wafer numbers from shoulder to tip.

With a tumbler out and reading the wafer sequence, yes you can obtain the wafer sequence, and yes, Curt can then make a key, no problemo. (Thank you Curt!) However, an average person cannot obtain the 4 digit key code by examining the wafers. One needs access to the chart which maps the key codes to the wafer sequence. Yes, Curt has the chart, but that's not public knowledge.

The key code is supposedly stamped on the drivers side door mechanism on 914s. This doesn't help however if the original has been discarded since it broke many years ago and was replaced, having that odd key. On 911s, the code is on a small stamp glued to the ignition switch. This doesn't help if said stamp has been removed. The code was originally on a card that was attached to the valet keys. Again, if you have the card, great, but if not, oh well.

The point is, for completeness, it's good to know the key code. For a long time the 4 digit code was the standard means of going to a dealer and obtaining a duplicate key. Yes, today Curt can provide keys with any wafer sequence so knowing the 4 digit key code isn't necessary. You can even come up with a custom wafer sequence and you can have a key made that works perfectly. It seems however that some custom sequences may not have a corresponding key code in the chart. Yes, you'll have keys and all is fine, but if you lose your keys and need a replacement, you won't be able to use the 4 digit code and conveniently get a replacement.

Dan

[bbrock]

If you have a door or ignition tumbler out, you can get your code by reading the wafer numbers from shoulder to tip.

With a tumbler out and reading the wafer sequence, yes you can obtain the wafer sequence, and yes, Curt can then make a key, no problemo. (Thank you Curt!) However, an average person cannot obtain the 4 digit key code by examining the wafers. One needs access to the chart which maps the key codes to the wafer sequence. Yes, Curt has the chart, but that's not public knowledge.

The key code is supposedly stamped on the drivers side door mechanism on 914s. This doesn't help however if the original has been discarded since it broke many years ago and was replaced, having that odd key. On 911s, the code is on a small stamp glued to the ignition switch. This doesn't help if said stamp has been removed. The code was originally on a card that was attached to the valet keys. Again, if you have the card, great, but if not, oh well.

The point is, for completeness, it's good to know the key code. For a long time the 4 digit code was the standard means of going to a dealer and obtaining a duplicate key. Yes, today Curt can provide keys with any wafer sequence so knowing the 4 digit key code isn't necessary. You can even come up with a custom wafer sequence and you can have a key made that works perfectly. It seems however that some custom sequences may not have a corresponding key code in the chart. Yes, you'll have keys and all is fine, but if you lose your keys and need a replacement, you won't be able to use the 4 digit code and conveniently get a replacement.

Dan

I'm learning (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) So if I understand correctly, reading the wafer sequence as I posted gives you a 10-digit code that can be used to cut a key, but is not "THE key code" which is 4-digit. Can the 4-digit code be looked up in reverse from the 10-digit wafer sequence (understanding that some custom sequences might not back reference to a code)?

I also didn't know the valet wafer replaces a #2. When I re-keyed my locks, I just used it as kind of a wildcard to replace a wafer I was short on. Must have gotten lucky since they all work.