rush to red rocks classic, How not to prepare for an event Options

[targa72e]

So, jump forward. My 914 -6 conversion now has its 4th motor and can move under its own power. Planning on driving from Denver to Salt lake for RRC.

About 5 years ago I decided to jump into the 914 world. I have several 911 engines needing projects and roller 911's have become really expensive ( and I have two 911 rollers that are already planed projects) so I bought a 914 for a -6 conversion. Not knowing much at the time I got lucky with pretty rust free 73.
It has kind of become my engine mule. First engine was a 2.4 MFI motor with S pistons and Ecams. Used it to decide if I like 914's, I do.

Mule as it looks now.



Ended up selling that motor to another 914 world member in Florida.

My friend (who will be joining me at Red Rocks, also shares the same name) also had engines that needed to be built.
So with the engine bay empty we built a 2.7 RS+ engine with RS pistons and Mod S cams and weber carbs. This was a big step up. Dyno below of 2.4 E with S cams vs 2.7 RS+.



We are working to get his 76 911 travel capable but if he is too soft for no AC he will bring his 01 turbo (you can give him crap).

His 2.7 made my 914 much more fun. I had a 2.7 engine in planning for "my 914" that this helped solidify the specs.

Since I jumped into the 914 world I started looking for "my 914" project to build how I wanted based on my experience so far. This resulted in having 4 914's at one point.

One of the cars I purchased sent me down a side road. It was originally a sad neglected car with great potential. I purchased it thinking it would make a great start for "my 914-6" but was ultimately too nice for me to modify so I spent a year and a half bringing it back to good health. It was purchased by another 914 member and should be at RRC as well. Story hear.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...mp;hl=white+car

So after my friends engine vacated my cars engine bay I decided to build what I called my "junk yard dog" motor. This was built from parts I had that had no home. While not in new spec they were not yet worn out. They consisted of a 2.4 case that I used my new mill to add case savers and deck ( it was quite warped in this area). It was built to similar spec to the first engine, 2.4 with JE pistons 9.5 to 1 and E cams. It had T heads ported to S specs and ran Zenith TIN carbs instead of MFI from first engine. Made great power with the larger ports and a little more compression compared to stock port size MFI engine I originally built.



So ended up purchasing a bunch of 914 and 911 parts early this winter. This included a mostly ready to build motor plus a spare 2.7. About the same time I saw a post from some one with a 912 that wanted a complete 911 motor. Why not sell the "junk yard dog", I had a good 6 months until RRC why not make my 914 immobile again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I would have plenty of time to build another engine.

Too be continued

John

See you at RRC one way or another.

[targa72e]

Ran the engine on stand a few more times during the week to make sure there were no issues. Tried to do a little carb tuning with out much success. August 27th engine goes in car. Now I can drive a little and do final tune on carbs (so I think). Engine runs ok but I still have the idle turned up to about 1600rpm. If the car idles for more than about 30-40 seconds idle drops and is stalls. Not sure whats going on at this point.

Driving around more to try and get some miles on new engine. Still cant get carbs to work correctly. These were carbs I purchased that the previous owner who could not get to run correctly. When I took them apart on of the screws for the float pivot was in the bottom of the bowl, no wonder they would not work correctly, that was the issue I thought. That was not the only problem.
Trying to get my wide band O2 working and had some driver issues to PC. Had ignition on with fuel pump running for a while during trouble shooting and started to smell gas. Quick check and one of the needle valves on one carb is not sealing correctly and bowls are over flowing into two cylinders. ah ha moment as to why the car ran OK but died after 30+ seconds of idling.

Luckily i had several other valves to try. Swapped good valve to overflowing end of carb to make sure that was the issue (it was). one problem fixed. Car now idled better and did not die after 30-40 seconds.

Started back at basics with checking float bowl fuel height and starting carb tuning over from scratch. Another problem found. Turns out the float level on the one carbs was set at Weber height which is quite a bit higher than Zeniths. Another problem fixed. More adjusting and tuning (I hate carbs) runs much better but still can not get idle below about 1400 before engine just dies.

Started back at square one double checking ignition timing. Total advance looked good but it looked like advance was coming in to fast. Distributor came out of running car so assumed it was in good order. Pulled it apart and found the advance springs had been messed with and were not working correctly. Pulled spare distributor apart and made one good one. Another weekend done and another problem fixed....

[ClayPerrine]

Ran the engine on stand a few more times during the week to make sure there were no issues. Tried to do a little carb tuning with out much success. August 27th engine goes in car. Now I can drive a little and do final tune on carbs (so I think). Engine runs ok but I still have the idle turned up to about 1600rpm. If the car idles for more than about 30-40 seconds idle drops and is stalls. Not sure whats going on at this point.

Driving around more to try and get some miles on new engine. Still cant get carbs to work correctly. These were carbs I purchased that the previous owner who could not get to run correctly. When I took them apart on of the screws for the float pivot was in the bottom of the bowl, no wonder they would not work correctly, that was the issue I thought. That was not the only problem.
Trying to get my wide band O2 working and had some driver issues to PC. Had ignition on with fuel pump running for a while during trouble shooting and started to smell gas. Quick check and one of the needle valves on one carb is not sealing correctly and bowls are over flowing into two cylinders. ah ha moment as to why the car ran OK but died after 30+ seconds of idling.

Luckily i had several other valves to try. Swapped good valve to overflowing end of carb to make sure that was the issue (it was). one problem fixed. Car now idled better and did not die after 30-40 seconds.

Started back at basics with checking float bowl fuel height and starting carb tuning over from scratch. Another problem found. Turns out the float level on the one carbs was set at Weber height which is quite a bit higher than Zeniths. Another problem fixed. More adjusting and tuning (I hate carbs) runs much better but still can not get idle below about 1400 before engine just dies.

Started back at square one double checking ignition timing. Total advance looked good but it looked like advance was coming in to fast. Distributor came out of running car so assumed it was in good order. Pulled it apart and found the advance springs had been messed with and were not working correctly. Pulled spare distributor apart and made one good one. Another weekend done and another problem fixed....

You can always go this route:





Yes, those are throttle body fuel injection tucked inside what appears to be a 40IDA3C Carb. Just add a microsquirt module and you get all the appearance of a carbed car with all of the benefits of modern fuel injection.

https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-body-ki...ottle-body-42mm

They also make 40IDF replicas that have FI inside.

Clay