Rust repair before paint, The quest for solid metal in the driver side Long - 73 narrow body/4 rebuild thread Options

[Montreal914]

Edit: I might as well make this my rebuild thread...

Original post; I got side tracked on my Microsquirt build as I have decided, after 11 years of ownership, to finally get my car painted to get her ready for her upcoming 50th birthday. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Knowing these endeavors can take a lot more time than initially planned, I hope to make it in time... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

Originally bahia red 73 1.7. The goal is a narrow body 2056 Microsquirt, VW Tornado red, 5 lugs conversion with 16" Fuchs.
Front: 914-4 A arms with rubber bushings, 911 3" pin struts, Bilstein inserts, Alfa Brembo, vented rotor, stock torsion bar, 19mm sway bar, turbo tie rods, and 19mm master cylinder.
Rear: Drilled hubs, 914 PMB stock calipers edit: 914-6 calipers replica, 914-6 solid rear rotors, 140lbs springs, stock sway bar, rubber bushings.

But before I get the pleasure of installing all of these beautiful fresh goodies, I need to tackle the not so fun stuff... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I have already started fixing some of the rust issues and will share that progress in the near future but right now, I wanted to post some of the issues i have on the passenger side front fender. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I have searched and read many of the builds here but I would like some inputs from the people who have gone through this mess.

I am trying to understand the construction of the rear part of the fender, more precisely the area joining the front cowling.

Below is a sketch of how I think it is made but i would like someone to confirm...



Having removed the seam sealer in the upper rear area, I have discovered "this" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) which is not really unusual, but clearly a pain to fix. I am not sure though what I am looking at. If my sketch is correct, I guess the inner rusted layer is from the fender rear bulkhead that actually becomes an inner layer on the rear upper point of the fender by the door and cowling junction.





I might be able to cut this from the underside preventing me from cutting the outer surface of the fender. But I would like to better understand what is happening at the junction to the body.
How many layers are there from the fender, one or two?
Is the metal peeling off at the joint to the body the metal from the bulkhead/inner layer, or is it the outer fender layer?

As a reference, this if the situation of the channel, surface rust, but how bad? Is there a way to better know without destroying? Maybe poke with a screwdriver? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)



Comments appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[nathanxnathan]

You know my original advice was to splice in just what you need, but if you do end up doing the whole fender, I would drill out the parts that the donor fender needs from the car and patch it on the bench.

Spot/resistance welding the donor in would be so much easier than plug welding. Every seam of it is spot weld-able except the top of the targa bar. If you want I could come by with my spot welder some weekend — if you have everything prepped and fit up/clamped, the whole thing would only be a few hours. PM me if you want to — seriously soo much easier — and easier to make it clean than with a mig.

[Montreal914]

You know my original advice was to splice in just what you need, but if you do end up doing the whole fender, I would drill out the parts that the donor fender needs from the car and patch it on the bench.

Spot/resistance welding the donor in would be so much easier than plug welding. Every seam of it is spot weld-able except the top of the targa bar. If you want I could come by with my spot welder some weekend — if you have everything prepped and fit up/clamped, the whole thing would only be a few hours. PM me if you want to — seriously soo much easier — and easier to make it clean than with a mig.

Nathan, yes I still have all the pictures you sent me and did like the "simplicity" of cutting and replacing only what is damaged. That being said, I am very worried about the scars. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

If I understand what you are saying, you recommend I make the doner fender whole using parts from the car. Actually, I believe with the yellow fender and other loose body parts I could complete the doner fender before even cutting the car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

Now, as for your spot weld idea, that is quite an offer! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) What kind of voltage is required for this 110 or 220V?

I am getting more and more confident about this challenge. I will continue the prep work and keep you posted. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[nathanxnathan]

Nathan, yes I still have all the pictures you sent me and did like the "simplicity" of cutting and replacing only what is damaged. That being said, I am very worried about the scars. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

If I understand what you are saying, you recommend I make the doner fender whole using parts from the car. Actually, I believe with the yellow fender and other loose body parts I could complete the doner fender before even cutting the car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

Now, as for your spot weld idea, that is quite an offer! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) What kind of voltage is required for this 110 or 220V?

I am getting more and more confident about this challenge. I will continue the prep work and keep you posted. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

It's nice that you can build a complete fender without what's on the car. That means you can grind the spot welds and leave what remains on the car undamaged, and save having to fix any holes etc.

Ah yeah I was thinking about what sort of outlets you have. My Spot welder is a Miller LMSW-52 which is 220 single phase with a 20 amp Nema 6-20P plug with a pretty long cord. I do have an extension cord that goes from the 6-20P to a Nema 6-50 which is what I have in my wall for my Synchrowave, but that's probably not going to help. It wants a 20 amp plug so converting to a 15 amp dryer plug isn't a great option.

Miller Spot Welder Specs

I do have a nice variety of tongs which are actually pretty hard to come by. The "standard" ones, the TT-9's, and the FF's shown in the spec sheet above. I've got more into the tongs than I do the welder — it's crazy what they go for. I don't know if you need anything special for tongs, possibly for the tail light area the FFs would help.

I was looking at the 110v spot welder that Harbor Freight sells. If your plug/breaker situation is no good for 220v, it could be a good option. It's really low cost compared to what the miller stuff was.

HF 110v Spot welder

Let me know what you think. I'm happy to help.