Rust repair before paint, The quest for solid metal in the driver side Long - 73 narrow body/4 rebuild thread Options

[Montreal914]

Edit: I might as well make this my rebuild thread...

Original post; I got side tracked on my Microsquirt build as I have decided, after 11 years of ownership, to finally get my car painted to get her ready for her upcoming 50th birthday. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Knowing these endeavors can take a lot more time than initially planned, I hope to make it in time... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

Originally bahia red 73 1.7. The goal is a narrow body 2056 Microsquirt, VW Tornado red, 5 lugs conversion with 16" Fuchs.
Front: 914-4 A arms with rubber bushings, 911 3" pin struts, Bilstein inserts, Alfa Brembo, vented rotor, stock torsion bar, 19mm sway bar, turbo tie rods, and 19mm master cylinder.
Rear: Drilled hubs, 914 PMB stock calipers edit: 914-6 calipers replica, 914-6 solid rear rotors, 140lbs springs, stock sway bar, rubber bushings.

But before I get the pleasure of installing all of these beautiful fresh goodies, I need to tackle the not so fun stuff... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I have already started fixing some of the rust issues and will share that progress in the near future but right now, I wanted to post some of the issues i have on the passenger side front fender. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I have searched and read many of the builds here but I would like some inputs from the people who have gone through this mess.

I am trying to understand the construction of the rear part of the fender, more precisely the area joining the front cowling.

Below is a sketch of how I think it is made but i would like someone to confirm...



Having removed the seam sealer in the upper rear area, I have discovered "this" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) which is not really unusual, but clearly a pain to fix. I am not sure though what I am looking at. If my sketch is correct, I guess the inner rusted layer is from the fender rear bulkhead that actually becomes an inner layer on the rear upper point of the fender by the door and cowling junction.





I might be able to cut this from the underside preventing me from cutting the outer surface of the fender. But I would like to better understand what is happening at the junction to the body.
How many layers are there from the fender, one or two?
Is the metal peeling off at the joint to the body the metal from the bulkhead/inner layer, or is it the outer fender layer?

As a reference, this if the situation of the channel, surface rust, but how bad? Is there a way to better know without destroying? Maybe poke with a screwdriver? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)



Comments appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Montreal914]

All good inputs!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

@nathanxnathan I have a drier outlet nearby not sure if this could work. But I have another option too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) , the shell is still a roller, even better, it is registered and insured, and to top it off, it has the tow bar bracket on and can be pulled by the family minivan. And yes the drive shafts have been removed and the stubs put back in to save the rear bearings. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)

[nathanxnathan]

All good inputs!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

@nathanxnathan I have a drier outlet nearby not sure if this could work. But I have another option too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) , the shell is still a roller, even better, it is registered and insured, and to top it off, it has the tow bar bracket on and can be pulled by the family minivan. And yes the drive shafts have been removed and the stubs put back in to save the rear bearings. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)

The drier outlet probably isn't the best option as they're rated at 15 amp. The spot welder only has 1 setting. Each weld only takes about a second, but it's fully onm, and may trip the breaker...

That seems like a good option, if you can get it here for the day/a few hours. I can totally make space right in front of my studio as my project is mobile now on the rotisserie/dolly.

Depending on how together it is when you bring it, it might be pretty quick — spot welding is really nice that way.

Let me know if you need help with anything. I have a pretty decent number of c-clamps, which this sort of stuff always needs.

I would use 3m weld-through primer on both sides for the spot welding.

You'll want to look into what others have used to do the seal which is at the base of the sail panel. The fenders I have taken off it is a foam seal — which seems pretty bad like it would trap water. Is there some better, like rubber/adhesive option? I was thinking maybe 3M NVH Dampening Material? — it's an adhesive gap filler that is often recommended to bond like hood and door skins to their frames.

I was thinking about what I said, about the top of the targa being the only area you can't spot weld. This is I think true. I was thinking though about how the factory attached the front/lower of the inner/door jamb to the sill panel. They actually braze it, like with a torch and bronze there. I guess capillary action allows the bronze to flow between the 2 layers which overlap quite a bit. I don't have an oxy acetylene torch unfortunately, and I've never done it. I guess we could spot weld there as well. Maybe someone else has input on joining that area. maybe I'm overthinking it?