Another 914-6 GT Tribute Project Options

[Tom1394racing]

After having enjoyed several 911’s over the past 40 years, I decided about a year ago that my next project would be a 914-6 GT Tribute car. I had been thinking for some time about a mid-engine open car but the Boxster is just not my cup of tea. I am more of a 70’s air cooled hot rod type and I love my ’73 Signal Orange 911 RSR tribute car. So a 914-6 GT seemed like an obvious choice. It ticked all my boxes and I have always admired the ‘70’s GT race cars.

My friends at Auto Associates in Canton, CT knew I was considering a 914-6 GT project so when a customer’s ’73 914 2.0 became available there last fall we put it up on their lift, took a close look and deemed it an acceptable starting point. The project plan is to follow the same process I have used on my RSR and my ‘70E restoration projects. I strip the car in my home shop, send the shell to Auto Associates for the metal work, chassis stiffening and paint. The painted shell comes back to me and I do the mechanical work and reassembly.

My plan is not to do a 100% accurate GT tribute but rather to build a car that looks, sounds and drives like a street friendly GT. I am not planning on any serious track or autocross but more of a fun spirited street hot rod. I know there is a ton of expertise and experience on this forum so I will be looking for some sage advice as I document the build in this thread. So here are my thoughts:

Exterior
GT flares front and rear. I will likely leave the decision of metal vs FG to Auto Associates. I would like the car to be as light as is practical. I have FG flares on my RSR and they have held up very well over the 15 years since the original restoration. I am also planning to do the lightweight, balsa reinforced front and rear trunk lids. I also would like to do the GT style double grill engine cover. Not sure if anyone makes these or if I will have Auto Associates fabricate one from my existing cover. I will go with the hood pins front and bungees rear for lid closure. Not sure whether to go with the motor operated headlights or if the cable operated system is reliable enough. I do not plan to do a lot of night driving. For wheels, I am thinking Minilites on the rear and Fuchs on the front. I also want to keep the removable top as open air driving is one of my key objectives. I am liking Mexico Blue for the color.

Interior
I plan to go with a 911 steering column and LHS 911 ignition switch as well as 911 turn signal, wiper switches and clamshell. I am also thinking of a reproduction 911 style hockey puck steering wheel. Door panels would be the GT style with strap operated pulls for door opening. I am also thinking of a pair of GTS Classic vintage seats perhaps the LeMans series. Gauges will mimic the GT type.

Drivetrain
I have a 3.0 L SC long block that I plan to use as a basis for power. I am thinking 9.5 CR with ModS type cams and a twin plug distributor. I am also toying with the idea of EFI. I am thinking 200-225 HP. I will stick with the 901 gearbox and the special 215 mm 9 bolt flywheel. I would use 911 output stubs, Sway Away free floating axles, and 911 stubs axles & hubs. I will use a front cooler and oil plumbing similar to the GT. Not sure which option to take with regard to the motor mounts.

Suspension
Other than 911 3.5” caliper spaced front struts, and 911 front hubs, I have not given the suspension much thought as yet. I do not want the car to be so stiff and jarring that it knocks my fillings out on the pothole strewn roads here in CT. That said, I also do not want the car to roll and lean like my stock ‘70E. I like the stock type of front and rear roll bars, maybe a little bigger than the stock size. I am thinking early 911S Aluminum calipers in the front. No sure about the rear calipers. I like the 15” Michelin TB’s for tires.

Chassis Stiffening
Like all 914’s this one is not rust free. After the rust repairs, I am planning to have Auto Associates install the chassis stiffening kits for the front torsion bar area, sills and rear suspension including the rear trailing arms. I am also planning on a weld-in roll bar with diagonals tied into the door sills that will allow for reasonably easy entry and exit. I want the chassis to be as stiff as possible yet still allow for the removable Targa roof.

Well…That is the current plan. I am very interested in suggestions and input from those of you who have been down this road before me. I plan to post progress with photos as I go forward and I look forward to all your comments.

[Tom1394racing]

There’s a chemical strip shop west of Harrisburg PA. 3S chemicals llc. They quoted me ~ 3k for my 912. 3-6 month wait and 1k deposit. I ended up shipping the car to - pro strip Indy in Indianapolis IA. They had a good rep from people I know and I was very happy with their service. They charged $2300 and took 2 weeks once they received it. The other reason I sent it there is because there is a company near by that e-coats the chassis in a tank. Both companies have been great to deal with and only take money when the job is done.

If you chemically strip a chassis in a tank, I believe you need to e-coat it in a tank. The chemical strip removes everything including every bit of metal protection in between the seams and in all the hollow chambers. There’s no way to coat the metal between the seams unless you dip it. Normal paint is too thick. Cavity wax will coat the cavities but only a thin liquid like they use for e-coat will actually get between all the seams. At least this is what I have read, researched, experienced first hand on other cars and have decided is the right process. I also believe the past problems with chemical dip “leaking out of the seams” month later is not actually chemical leaking but moisture attacking the bare metal and rusting it. Chemically stripped metal starts rusting immediately, even neutralized, because it’s bare metal. The only way to protect it is to dip it again to get to all the metal that is raw.

So to get back to my car, the 912 is at the Ecoat place and should be done by the end of the week. It’s a 12 step process to clean the metal of all the flash rust and then e-coat. The chem dip exposed some additional corrosion but we’ll fix it when it gets home. The e-coat process is ~$3,500 and it was $900 each way to ship and $500 to ship between shops. Not cheap at all but I want a solid car that I can trust not to have issues down the road. I wouldn’t have minded trailering it out but having to make a second trip to pick up means I really wouldn’t have saved any money when all was done. Plus that’s a lot of time to make two up and back trips.

The thing that was in my favor on the early 912 is it has steel heater tubes. After 67/68, Porsche moved to the paper tubes.

Hey Mark

Thanks for the info on your choices for chemical stripping and E-coating. The shop I am considering in MI quoted me $3600 for hot tank dip/pressure wash/acid dip/neutralizing dip/e-coat dip. They do it all in house. Seems like the best choice for me especially when they are recommended by the shop that will be doing my chassis and paint work. 11 hours will be a long drive to make four times but I think it will be cheaper than shipping.