Rust repair before paint, The quest for solid metal in the driver side Long - 73 narrow body/4 rebuild thread Options

[Montreal914]

Edit: I might as well make this my rebuild thread...

Original post; I got side tracked on my Microsquirt build as I have decided, after 11 years of ownership, to finally get my car painted to get her ready for her upcoming 50th birthday. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Knowing these endeavors can take a lot more time than initially planned, I hope to make it in time... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

Originally bahia red 73 1.7. The goal is a narrow body 2056 Microsquirt, VW Tornado red, 5 lugs conversion with 16" Fuchs.
Front: 914-4 A arms with rubber bushings, 911 3" pin struts, Bilstein inserts, Alfa Brembo, vented rotor, stock torsion bar, 19mm sway bar, turbo tie rods, and 19mm master cylinder.
Rear: Drilled hubs, 914 PMB stock calipers edit: 914-6 calipers replica, 914-6 solid rear rotors, 140lbs springs, stock sway bar, rubber bushings.

But before I get the pleasure of installing all of these beautiful fresh goodies, I need to tackle the not so fun stuff... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I have already started fixing some of the rust issues and will share that progress in the near future but right now, I wanted to post some of the issues i have on the passenger side front fender. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I have searched and read many of the builds here but I would like some inputs from the people who have gone through this mess.

I am trying to understand the construction of the rear part of the fender, more precisely the area joining the front cowling.

Below is a sketch of how I think it is made but i would like someone to confirm...



Having removed the seam sealer in the upper rear area, I have discovered "this" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) which is not really unusual, but clearly a pain to fix. I am not sure though what I am looking at. If my sketch is correct, I guess the inner rusted layer is from the fender rear bulkhead that actually becomes an inner layer on the rear upper point of the fender by the door and cowling junction.





I might be able to cut this from the underside preventing me from cutting the outer surface of the fender. But I would like to better understand what is happening at the junction to the body.
How many layers are there from the fender, one or two?
Is the metal peeling off at the joint to the body the metal from the bulkhead/inner layer, or is it the outer fender layer?

As a reference, this if the situation of the channel, surface rust, but how bad? Is there a way to better know without destroying? Maybe poke with a screwdriver? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)



Comments appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Montreal914]

OK, time for some update. The current work is focused on preparing the donor fender to make it whole again before removing the damaged one from the car.

A couple of areas will need attention. The first one I have been working on is the gutter area where the trunk seal lives. As shown before, unfortunately that area was removed during the fender's salvage yard days. I actually hesitated a week before getting this fender but the rest of its condition made me get it and deal with this down the road.



Using the yellow rear fender portion I have, I first removed the gutter section by cutting near the bend of the exterior surface so I can line the yellow piece over the new (old) fender.







With both parts nicely lining up, I was able to trace on the yellow piece where it should be trimmed.




But before trimming it, I decided to plug the holes I had previously drilled out when preparing this fender section as one of my potential option for this whole fender repair. That was before @nathanxnathan 's very kind offer of using his spot welder (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) for the installation. I had originally planned on plug welding the repair sheet metal in place. So now I need to plug all these holes back! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)




After trimming and removing the paint for welding. I positioned the piece using magnets.




Measuring on my car, I established the depth of the gutter at about 19.5mm, so before putting any tacks down, measure three times, and weld! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)



Current state of fabrication! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)