Rust repair before paint, The quest for solid metal in the driver side Long - 73 narrow body/4 rebuild thread Options

[Montreal914]

Edit: I might as well make this my rebuild thread...

Original post; I got side tracked on my Microsquirt build as I have decided, after 11 years of ownership, to finally get my car painted to get her ready for her upcoming 50th birthday. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Knowing these endeavors can take a lot more time than initially planned, I hope to make it in time... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

Originally bahia red 73 1.7. The goal is a narrow body 2056 Microsquirt, VW Tornado red, 5 lugs conversion with 16" Fuchs.
Front: 914-4 A arms with rubber bushings, 911 3" pin struts, Bilstein inserts, Alfa Brembo, vented rotor, stock torsion bar, 19mm sway bar, turbo tie rods, and 19mm master cylinder.
Rear: Drilled hubs, 914 PMB stock calipers edit: 914-6 calipers replica, 914-6 solid rear rotors, 140lbs springs, stock sway bar, rubber bushings.

But before I get the pleasure of installing all of these beautiful fresh goodies, I need to tackle the not so fun stuff... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I have already started fixing some of the rust issues and will share that progress in the near future but right now, I wanted to post some of the issues i have on the passenger side front fender. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I have searched and read many of the builds here but I would like some inputs from the people who have gone through this mess.

I am trying to understand the construction of the rear part of the fender, more precisely the area joining the front cowling.

Below is a sketch of how I think it is made but i would like someone to confirm...



Having removed the seam sealer in the upper rear area, I have discovered "this" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) which is not really unusual, but clearly a pain to fix. I am not sure though what I am looking at. If my sketch is correct, I guess the inner rusted layer is from the fender rear bulkhead that actually becomes an inner layer on the rear upper point of the fender by the door and cowling junction.





I might be able to cut this from the underside preventing me from cutting the outer surface of the fender. But I would like to better understand what is happening at the junction to the body.
How many layers are there from the fender, one or two?
Is the metal peeling off at the joint to the body the metal from the bulkhead/inner layer, or is it the outer fender layer?

As a reference, this if the situation of the channel, surface rust, but how bad? Is there a way to better know without destroying? Maybe poke with a screwdriver? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)



Comments appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Montreal914]

I was able to continue the slow process of making one stitch at a time while cooling everything and moving around. Eventually, I closed all the gaps. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)





Then, time to grind down this long string, still trying to keep the metal cool with a wet towel stuffed in the back. Finally got to this.




Another angle.




And just to make sure everyone understands... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)




Needless to say that the fender is a lot stiffer now on its tail end. I think this area is pretty much done with metal work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)



Now moving on to the other area needing attention before I can start thinking about installing this donner fender on my car.

As shown before, the lower part of the door jamb was unfortunately cut where the fender mounts to the body. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)




Luckily, when purchasing the fender, I was able to get this lower door jamb from another wreck.





Time to remove the non-needed extra metal (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)




Now the part can be used.





Here both the "new" door jamb area and the fender have been cut to be put together. The idea was to have a good portion of the jointed area to be hidden behind the VIN decal ( that I need to get...). You can also see the template I traced on the thin sheet of wood from the the car as a reference. When welding the repair piece in, the fender flange will lay flat on a 1/2" aluminum plate that is underneath. This part of the car being straight (vertical door jamb weld flange) makes that alignment portion easier when set on a flat plate.

The gaps are a little larger than what I like them to be, but at this point, unfortunately, there is no going back. I will have to weld the two pieces like this, just a little more challenging for an beginner welder like myself (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)




Second important view point, the lower curve.




Looks like we are ready to go! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) And the result... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)




As they say, that'll buff out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) . Well after grinding, I ended up with this. The jamb area did not give as good a result than the trunk seal fix, but overall I am happy. A few more areas to be looked at and it will be time to remove the car's original fender in preparation for the spot welding of this one! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)