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BeatNavy |
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Certified Professional Scapegoat ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,948 Joined: 26-February 14 From: Easton, MD Member No.: 17,042 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
It's been well established that I am dumber than the average bear, but aren't the tie rod ends (on turbo tie rods) just supposed to unscrew off the tie rod? I'm not talking about getting the threaded end out of the control/pittman arm -- I've done that. I'm trying to replace the tie rod end. Heat, PB Blaster, but I can't seem to break it free. It's not easy getting leverage on the rod and the end at the same time, but I've put a fair amount of torque on there with no luck.
Any suggestions or thoughts? |
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technicalninja |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,456 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
One of the techs showed me his trick. He heats up the part and then uses a piece of paraffin wax. The wax wicks up the threads but unlike penetrating oils, doesn’t burn off easily. Pro techs don’t have all day (or days) to wait around for penetrating oil to work. This does it in minutes. Yep, this works great as well. Even better if you light the candle and let the already liquid wax hit your threads. This does require a torch (propane torch works fine) and can damage the paint. The pimp juice works in seconds as well. It does work better the longer you leave it on. I have been a professional technician for 4 decades... This is my current business. http://granburyautoac.com/ And yes, I still do R12 work. The car has to be special, and the AC system has to be perfect before I'll charge it. The 1970 Chevelle SS on my website had been converted to R134 and I back dated it to R12 seven years ago. It still blows 35 degrees on a 100-degree day... |
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