Not getting power from key to starter, can jump power and start engine but not from key Options

[Type 47]

We've been trying to figure this out for a couple of days. The car was converted to carbs by the PO and was running and starting fine before I took it apart.

Now, nothing happens when key is in start position but we can start if we touch pole 2 (powering fuel pump) and 4 together from open FI harness plug receptacle.

pole 1 being drivers front, 2 passenger front, 3 drivers rear, 4 passenger rear.

one other difference is that now using a Carter fuel pump versus the Faucet that was originally on the car.

[davep]

If you have the seatbelt interlock hooked up, and want to use it as I do, then there are a couple of simple things to make it work without a hassle; first is just pulling out the two big wires and jumpering them with a double ended connector, or I can supply you with another trick that will always enable the system. I would like to know how yours is wired up though since it seems there were a few variations.
The other hassle is the ignition switch which is a weak point for carrying the current also. A better way is to use another relay near the starter motor to remove the heavy current through the ignition switch, the interlock, and the whole main harness. The heavy yellow wires then just carry the new relay's solenoid current and keep the ignition switch from burning out. PM me for more info.

[Type 47]

If you have the seatbelt interlock hooked up, and want to use it as I do, then there are a couple of simple things to make it work without a hassle; first is just pulling out the two big wires and jumpering them with a double ended connector, or I can supply you with another trick that will always enable the system. I would like to know how yours is wired up though since it seems there were a few variations.
The other hassle is the ignition switch which is a weak point for carrying the current also. A better way is to use another relay near the starter motor to remove the heavy current through the ignition switch, the interlock, and the whole main harness. The heavy yellow wires then just carry the new relay's solenoid current and keep the ignition switch from burning out. PM me for more info.

We unplugged the buzzer and jumpered the big wires.

That solved the issue, we now have power from the key to the starter (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[euro911]

If you have the seatbelt interlock hooked up, and want to use it as I do, then there are a couple of simple things to make it work without a hassle; first is just pulling out the two big wires and jumpering them with a double ended connector, or I can supply you with another trick that will always enable the system. I would like to know how yours is wired up though since it seems there were a few variations.
The other hassle is the ignition switch which is a weak point for carrying the current also. A better way is to use another relay near the starter motor to remove the heavy current through the ignition switch, the interlock, and the whole main harness. The heavy yellow wires then just carry the new relay's solenoid current and keep the ignition switch from burning out. PM me for more info.

We unplugged the buzzer and jumpered the big wires.

That solved the issue, we now have power from the key to the starter (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

You might want to increase the size of the red jumper to a larger gauge. Note the size of the yellow wires (they look like they're #10 AWG) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)