Rust repair before paint, The quest for solid metal in the driver side Long - 73 narrow body/4 rebuild thread |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
Rust repair before paint, The quest for solid metal in the driver side Long - 73 narrow body/4 rebuild thread |
Montreal914 |
Oct 24 2020, 05:59 PM
Post
#1
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,700 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California |
Edit: I might as well make this my rebuild thread...
Original post; I got side tracked on my Microsquirt build as I have decided, after 11 years of ownership, to finally get my car painted to get her ready for her upcoming 50th birthday. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Knowing these endeavors can take a lot more time than initially planned, I hope to make it in time... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) Originally bahia red 73 1.7. The goal is a narrow body 2056 Microsquirt, VW Tornado red, 5 lugs conversion with 16" Fuchs. Front: 914-4 A arms with rubber bushings, 911 3" pin struts, Bilstein inserts, Alfa Brembo, vented rotor, stock torsion bar, 19mm sway bar, turbo tie rods, and 19mm master cylinder. Rear: Drilled hubs, But before I get the pleasure of installing all of these beautiful fresh goodies, I need to tackle the not so fun stuff... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I have already started fixing some of the rust issues and will share that progress in the near future but right now, I wanted to post some of the issues i have on the passenger side front fender. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I have searched and read many of the builds here but I would like some inputs from the people who have gone through this mess. I am trying to understand the construction of the rear part of the fender, more precisely the area joining the front cowling. Below is a sketch of how I think it is made but i would like someone to confirm... Having removed the seam sealer in the upper rear area, I have discovered "this" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) which is not really unusual, but clearly a pain to fix. I am not sure though what I am looking at. If my sketch is correct, I guess the inner rusted layer is from the fender rear bulkhead that actually becomes an inner layer on the rear upper point of the fender by the door and cowling junction. I might be able to cut this from the underside preventing me from cutting the outer surface of the fender. But I would like to better understand what is happening at the junction to the body. How many layers are there from the fender, one or two? Is the metal peeling off at the joint to the body the metal from the bulkhead/inner layer, or is it the outer fender layer? As a reference, this if the situation of the channel, surface rust, but how bad? Is there a way to better know without destroying? Maybe poke with a screwdriver? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Comments appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
Montreal914 |
Feb 24 2023, 07:04 PM
Post
#2
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,700 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California |
Another overdue update...
As mentioned in the previous post, the donner fender is pretty much ready (we'll get back to this...) so it was time to remove the original fender from the car. So here is the current situation which should seem 100% familiar to everyone, except the mess... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) First, the vent tube in the door jamb needs to be freed. By grinding the edge weld, it allowed me to pry away the inner tube which is attached to the fender. Then I cut the whole fender with a thin disk on a cheap angle grinder to leave only the spot welded strip attached to the car. This clears the access to grind the rest off in a second step. So here we go, rough cut, and out! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Next, I started on the top of the Targa bar. The spot welds have to be drilled here because the replacement fender will go underneath, and therefore will be plug welded in place. After drilling the welds I carefully pryed off the remnants. And here you have that segment pretty much done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Next going down the edge on the door side. Along the Targa, there are actually three layers of metal, the inner fender/Targa panel, the corrugated reinforcement piece, and the fender. This transitions to only layers the inner fender and fender itself from the door down until the very bottom where there is again three layers. Carefully grinding away each spot weld, I was able to cleanup this flange to receive the donner fender flange. Cleanup almost finished. Note that the latch bracket is actually not attached to the fender. The fender gets sandwiched between it and the door latch. Now working my way along the trunk seal area, removing about 1 1/4" at time grinding each spot weld. And there we have it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Well the rear corner will be addressed when the fender grafting strategy has been established... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 22nd November 2024 - 10:02 PM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |