Cooling fan woodruff key, Crank is damaged Options

[malcolm2]

Have only run maybe 4 gallons of gas thru a new rebuiltengine. Ran on the bench and recently installed. My cooling fan came loose.

Woodruff key is damaged along with the slot in the crank where it sits. Hub too.

Is there a way to suitably repair the crank without total engine removal and teardown ?

[malcolm2]

he called it MULTI-THOUSAND dollar prop, so yes.

Here is my Prussian Blue...

I wiped it on the hub and hand installed the hub. I slid it on with the key-way semi-aligned, At 1st I just rotated right and left a bit. Less blue transferred, but here in the same place.

Then I rotated the hub 360* and got this....

[porschetub]

he called it MULTI-THOUSAND dollar prop, so yes.

Here is my Prussian Blue...

I wiped it on the hub and hand installed the hub. I slid it on with the key-way semi-aligned, At 1st I just rotated right and left a bit. Less blue transferred, but here in the same place.

Then I rotated the hub 360* and got this....

Getting there but you still have a long way to go as you have a raised area around the keyway,I would get a guality flat file and just carefully work it down then redo your lapping and see what you get,don't be afraid to use course lapping paste as I will give you a good indicator when you blue it again ,then you can go finer if good result.
Your final result will be if the hub can be tapped on with a socket and will be hard to pop back off the taper you need this as it won't be an issue later .
Remove the old seal so you can see better whats going on and keep rotating the crank,cheers.

[bkrantz]

he called it MULTI-THOUSAND dollar prop, so yes.

Here is my Prussian Blue...

I wiped it on the hub and hand installed the hub. I slid it on with the key-way semi-aligned, At 1st I just rotated right and left a bit. Less blue transferred, but here in the same place.

Then I rotated the hub 360* and got this....

Getting there but you still have a long way to go as you have a raised area around the keyway,I would get a guality flat file and just carefully work it down then redo your lapping and see what you get,don't be afraid to use course lapping paste as I will give you a good indicator when you blue it again ,then you can go finer if good result.
Your final result will be if the hub can be tapped on with a socket and will be hard to pop back off the taper you need this as it won't be an issue later .
Remove the old seal so you can see better whats going on and keep rotating the crank,cheers.

Hmm. Filing the end of the crank with the inside of the case so close would make me nervous, no matter how the opening is sealed. Steel filings in the oil would be a very sad thing.

[ClayPerrine]

he called it MULTI-THOUSAND dollar prop, so yes.

Here is my Prussian Blue...

I wiped it on the hub and hand installed the hub. I slid it on with the key-way semi-aligned, At 1st I just rotated right and left a bit. Less blue transferred, but here in the same place.

Then I rotated the hub 360* and got this....

Getting there but you still have a long way to go as you have a raised area around the keyway,I would get a guality flat file and just carefully work it down then redo your lapping and see what you get,don't be afraid to use course lapping paste as I will give you a good indicator when you blue it again ,then you can go finer if good result.
Your final result will be if the hub can be tapped on with a socket and will be hard to pop back off the taper you need this as it won't be an issue later .
Remove the old seal so you can see better whats going on and keep rotating the crank,cheers.

Hmm. Filing the end of the crank with the inside of the case so close would make me nervous, no matter how the opening is sealed. Steel filings in the oil would be a very sad thing.

Take a 1 inch wide strip of all-mag about 3 inches long and lay it under the crank in the seal opening. Any filings will be caught on the magnet instead of going into the motor.