What went wrong?, it was running great and then not at all Options

[Type 47]

so we put the original 62k engine back in that had not had the distributor removed. Adjusted the valves (again after we put about 10 miles on it) we rebuilt the Webbers and it fired up. We did some timing and tweaking on the carbs.

It ran OK but a little shy of perfect. I replaced the wires and it seemed to improve it but idled a little high around 1,200.

My son came over to work on it the next day, but I wasn't home. All of a sudden, it won't even run.

we swapped distributers (both 009's) with the parts car, then swapped points (adjusted to 0.016). no improvement.

tested spark to all four cylinders. I seems like it's really out of timing but we didn't change it much. (except for the fact that we took the distributor out)

my son says we have spark, too much fuel, and not enough air.

What do we do next?????

[technicalninja]

Just looked at the link provided for syncing carbs.
Very good into. I have both tools and far. far prefer the snail gauge.

One thing that link didn't provide was what I do now FIRST.

I'll set the throttle stops on the carbs (commonly I was doing 3 two bl side drafts) to have the same openings when you look through the carb when off the car.

I'd back the throttle stops out until the blades actually seated and then chose one carb to be my standard. I'd open the throttle stop approx 1/2 turn from blade closed and then set the others in much the same way.
I'd then hold the carbs and look through the bores with a light source behind the carb,
I'd adjust # 2-3 to have the same width crescent of light coming that will be visible from the light source. On an IDF which has a adjustment between the two bores I'd set this adjustment next.
I'd bolt them on and hook up linkage and adjust the linkage to make all three carbs open at the same time.

Really important to set any mechanical throttle for WFO right from the start. Have someone bury the accelerator hard into the floorboard and verify the carbs can just hit wide open without any undue stress happening in the linkage.
All throttle cables should be adjusted for wide open first!
Most designs will then have the extra play at the beginning of the throttle stroke and you will not be able to damage. bend, or knock your adjustments out by flooring it.

After you have this together make sure the throttles all open at the same time VIA the accelerator pedal. Adjust individual linkages accordingly.

I found adjusting this crap, by eyeball, when the car is not running got 90% of the sync job done and the use of the snail tool was for minor finish up adjusting only.

The above mentioned procedure decreased the time involved for me by 75%.
Sometimes just eyeballing it was dead nut on.
It turned what can be a frustrating job into gravy...