OMG WTF, if it's not one thing it's another Options

[Type 47]

so we've been battling a tuning issue which is being discussed in another thread, so I don't want to muddy the waters with another issue, hence the new post.

So, i'm sneaking up on this carb tuning issue and get the car idling to do the carb tune stuff and I notice this shxt...

I get the car started, rev it to 2-3K for a little bit until it establishes idle at about 1,200.

so I get out to start fooling with the carbs and notice it's not smoking with white smoke like it was the last time. Outside temp was about 50, now outside temp is 64ish.

It's freak'n spitting out oil. There is a spray pattern out the tailpipe about 12' long.

When we filled the oil I instructed 4 qts but not sure if son put in the whole 5 qt Mobil One container in. Also, on initial run he thought it was a little low, on oil, so we put in another 1/2 qt.

Engine has been sticking a (measuring) really high ever since.

Has a piston ring gone south??

Is the oil overfill causing this issue?

Why did this just start happening?

[technicalninja]

Yep, if I was in your shoes, I'd work with those.

I'd get the 28s and tune them.

I'd start by base lining the car and hitting the tune up stuff exactly right.

Valve adjustment prefect.

I'd bit the bullet and get one of those 123 distributors (get the one that you can modify with your phone).

This dist set up seems to solve so much crap that plagues the 914.

Its only drawback seems to be price. Everyone who has one loves it.

I'd have hot compression and hot leak down numbers. They would have to be in the good range before I went further, Comp with 10% of each other. Leak down similar and below 20% on a used engine. Below 10% is better but I wouldn't rebuild unless I had seriously bad numbers. Both of these tests have to be done HOT and the process of the test cools the engine, so I'd do them separately with a driving period between them.

Adjust the valves BEFORE you do the comp test. Intake valve closure point varies compression more than any other reason.

I'd install a wide band O2 sensor to allow me to actually see what is really going on at different load points while driving. I have serious experience in reading plugs, tail pipe, and all the crap we used to do before WB. The WB is a requirement in my process now. It gives an accurate scientific readings on your jet set up.

And then I'd log AFRs and start swapping jets to correct any poor spots.

With a wideband I'd buy 75% fewer jets than without the WB.

My 75 came with the hated single progressive in the center. I'm installing a wideband as the first thing I do to this car, and I'm interested in how well this set-up works.
I don't think I'll waste any money on these as I will be first moving back to stock L-jet on this car. Progressive to stock J-jet 1.8 to 2.2l+ with digital aftermarket is the path I will travel.

If I already had your carbs, I'd work with them. nditiz1 has serious direct experience with them and I'd be bugging him a bunch.
He has stronger "force" with these than I do.