How to inspect the underside and longs without a lift, now the Not another novice project thread Options

[seanpaulmc]

I've just purchased a '73 914 and owned it long enough to ship it to Orlando and take it to go get titled. With only having it for this short period my list of concerns is growing. I have no intentions of driving the car around until I can assess how rusty it is. I appreciate the support and responses to the questions about transportation and engine identification. This is a superb community.

What advice do you have for lifting the car to inspect underneath and such without having access to a lift? I have read some of the build threads on here and you guys have some amazing shops and do incredible work! ...one day. But, at this point I don't have that.

For now I'd like to lift the car, take the wheels off, and take the longitudinal covers off to get a good look at the structural areas of the car. However, I have concerns because this is a snowbelt car and I've read the stories about putting a floor jack through a rusted out car. Where should I lift with the floor jack (trust the jacking points?, other areas) and where should I put the jack stands so that I can poke around some and get pictures?

Merry Christmas!!!

[seanpaulmc]

Thanks for the feedback, All.

About that welder, is there advice for a recommended welder for a novice on here? Likewise, on what to stay away from?

DD - thanks for breaking down the Q&A like that. Really easy to follow. I'll have to learn how to do that.

The actual pad I meant in my question was the pad affixed to the firewall behind the seat backpad. I was able to get the upholstered seat backpad out of car without removing the seats. What was left is stuck to the firewall but I'm not sure how. Seems like a kind of fiberboard. Should this be kept and retained for future use or removed no matter the cost and discarded?



Here's the condition of the seat backpad which looks salvageable. It clearly shows water damage at the bottom.





Thank you!

[DennisV]

About that welder, is there advice for a recommended welder for a novice on here? Likewise, on what to stay away from?

I started down the path of welding just over a year ago. If you plan to do any body panels, you may benefit from learning TIG. Plenty of people are successful with MIG, but I think you'll find it offers less control and introduces more heat distortion on body panels.

I ended up buying the Lincoln POWER MIG 140 Multi-Process. I’ve been very happy with it so far. You can do TIG, MIG, or stick. Runs off 110 which is convenient. It is pretty compact. I put it on a cheap Harbor Freight cart and it has been fine. I have only used it for TIG of 18-20 gauge sheet metal so far. There are two key drawbacks, but neither would stop me from buying this one again:
1. Volt / Amp control doesn’t allow you to select a value. It’s a letter system that take a little trial and error. But once you know, you know. You will spend at least another $500 to get a Lincoln model that offers precise readout.
2. It is lift start. You get used to it. High Frequency start would be ideal. Again more $$$.

I did online classes first. Tom Perazzo who is pretty well known for his Garage Time YouTube channel has a very good TIG video class. Also, master metal shaper Ron Covell has MIG and TIG videos. Beyond being good teachers, they are swell people. And don't rule out YouTube. Ray Schelin has a wealth of knowledge he shares for free from ProShaper.

Then took three hands on classes. Starting with a MIG class at my local maker space. You may also be able to find classes at a junior college too.
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Ultimately, practice, practices, practice.