Voltage Regulator, Need help finding right regulator Options

[ws6]

Help. I have gotten three voltage regulators from the normal Porsche Parts suppliers and none fit. The distance from edge of case to the first spade is .25 inches on my original regulator. The catalogs all show same regulator for 911, 914, and 914-6. The ones I have received vary from .4 from the edge to .65 from the edge all with same PN so will not fit in area to plug into. Anyone know the actual part to buy? My original has numbers on it in this order 0 190 601 006 AD 1/14V. The replacements show up as PN 901 603 206 02 Yes I can rewire, or maybe take both apart and move the guts, but trying to keep original and not have a wire harness to convert to get wires to new regulator. Thank you for your help. Tim

[Spoke]

I picked up this one locally from Autozone. Works fine.

[VaccaRabite]

I picked up this one locally from Autozone. Works fine.

This is what I am using as well.
Zach

[fixer34]

I picked up this one locally from Autozone. Works fine.

This is what I am using as well.
Zach

Interesting; my local Autozone wants $37.99 for it, but says lifetime warranty.
Also, one of their pictures shows the connectors in the epoxy bottom, but the others show a 3 wire stub cable with the connector. Wonder if the guy who makes up the pictures has ever seen one.

[bbrock]

Interesting; my local Autozone wants $37.99 for it, but says lifetime warranty.
Also, one of their pictures shows the connectors in the epoxy bottom, but the others show a 3 wire stub cable with the connector. Wonder if the guy who makes up the pictures has ever seen one.

Yeah, those pictures are what threw me. Autozone couldn't get one to me for a week so I bought this one from O'Reilly's which should be here in the morning.

[stoneman30hotmail]

Interesting; my local Autozone wants $37.99 for it, but says lifetime warranty.
Also, one of their pictures shows the connectors in the epoxy bottom, but the others show a 3 wire stub cable with the connector. Wonder if the guy who makes up the pictures has ever seen one.

Yeah, those pictures are what threw me. Autozone couldn't get one to me for a week so I bought this one from O'Reilly's which should be here in the morning.

Re-reviving an old post. I would have liked to know that that part doesn't quite fit. It was nice that O'reilys can get the part within a day for just over 50$. But the tab offset is too short. So, I cut of it off. Now there's 14V at the battery. So maybe that's ok. The generator light is still on though.

[Spoke]

Now there's 14V at the battery. So maybe that's ok. The generator light is still on though.

@stoneman30hotmail

Good that you have 14V at the battery. What is the voltage at D+ to chassis? The voltage across the GEN light is the difference between D+ and battery (through fuse F9). If D+ is also 14V, then with engine off, pop out the guage with GEN light, start the car and measure both sides of the GEN light. They should be the same.

[stoneman30hotmail]

Now there's 14V at the battery. So maybe that's ok. The generator light is still on though.

@stoneman30hotmail

Good that you have 14V at the battery. What is the voltage at D+ to chassis? The voltage across the GEN light is the difference between D+ and battery (through fuse F9). If D+ is also 14V, then with engine off, pop out the guage with GEN light, start the car and measure both sides of the GEN light. They should be the same.

17V at D+! What's that mean?

[Spoke]

Now there's 14V at the battery. So maybe that's ok. The generator light is still on though.

@stoneman30hotmail

Good that you have 14V at the battery. What is the voltage at D+ to chassis? The voltage across the GEN light is the difference between D+ and battery (through fuse F9). If D+ is also 14V, then with engine off, pop out the guage with GEN light, start the car and measure both sides of the GEN light. They should be the same.

17V at D+! What's that mean?

@stoneman30hotmail

Is this a new VR? D+ should be the same as the battery voltage. The VR uses DF to control the current in the armature of the alternator which in turn controls the voltage to the battery.

See the diagram below that the voltage generated at D+ by the stator should be identical to the voltage generated at B+ and thus the battery.

Check all 3 voltages at the VR connector WRT chassis, not the engine case.

D+ should equal battery voltage
DF should hover between 5V and 9V
D- should be zero volts.

If you have 17V at D+ and 14V at B+, then something is still amiss.

[stoneman30hotmail]

Now there's 14V at the battery. So maybe that's ok. The generator light is still on though.

@stoneman30hotmail

Good that you have 14V at the battery. What is the voltage at D+ to chassis? The voltage across the GEN light is the difference between D+ and battery (through fuse F9). If D+ is also 14V, then with engine off, pop out the guage with GEN light, start the car and measure both sides of the GEN light. They should be the same.

17V at D+! What's that mean?

@stoneman30hotmail

Is this a new VR? D+ should be the same as the battery voltage. The VR uses DF to control the current in the armature of the alternator which in turn controls the voltage to the battery.

See the diagram below that the voltage generated at D+ by the stator should be identical to the voltage generated at B+ and thus the battery.

Check all 3 voltages at the VR connector WRT chassis, not the engine case.

D+ should equal battery voltage
DF should hover between 5V and 9V
D- should be zero volts.

If you have 17V at D+ and 14V at B+, then something is still amiss.

Now I'm thinking that maybe one or two of the diodes is bad. That would cause an imbalance between the D+ and B+. The light is probably trying to say that the last diodes will go at any time. Maybe wasn't the regulator after all?

[windforfun]

Now there's 14V at the battery. So maybe that's ok. The generator light is still on though.

@stoneman30hotmail

Good that you have 14V at the battery. What is the voltage at D+ to chassis? The voltage across the GEN light is the difference between D+ and battery (through fuse F9). If D+ is also 14V, then with engine off, pop out the guage with GEN light, start the car and measure both sides of the GEN light. They should be the same.

17V at D+! What's that mean?

@stoneman30hotmail

Is this a new VR? D+ should be the same as the battery voltage. The VR uses DF to control the current in the armature of the alternator which in turn controls the voltage to the battery.

See the diagram below that the voltage generated at D+ by the stator should be identical to the voltage generated at B+ and thus the battery.

Check all 3 voltages at the VR connector WRT chassis, not the engine case.

D+ should equal battery voltage
DF should hover between 5V and 9V
D- should be zero volts.

If you have 17V at D+ and 14V at B+, then something is still amiss.

Now I'm thinking that maybe one or two of the diodes is bad. That would cause an imbalance between the D+ and B+. The light is probably trying to say that the last diodes will go at any time. Maybe wasn't the regulator after all?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)