2270 Build thread, Looking forward to making all of the mistakes! Options

[vjb206]

Hey folks! I've got...

• Case halves from an old 1.7 (cleaned as best I could)
• 2270 crank + P&C kit
• #163/86b Web Cam
• 2.0 heads with 44X36 valves, where I'll be installing dual springs and 38mm exhaust valves
• Upgraded oil pump and other goodies

So my first question for the community has to do with ensuring the rotating mass is spinning freely/correctly…

I started by measuring all of the the main journals on the crank and I got a range from 2.358” - 2.360” (I used a digital caliper and I'm pretty sure I did this correctly).

Then I “dry-fit” Silverline STD/STD main bearings into the case (sans crank), torqued everything down, and got 0.003” in radial play (I used a cylinder bore dial gauge for the first time, and I think I did it correctly).

The spec-sheet says radial play should be between 0.06” - 0.10” (0.03” - 0.09” for #2); and I have 0.003." I'm a MINIMUM of 0.057" off, is that normal? What's my next step?

1. Stop pretending I know what I'm doing and take it to a machinist for test-fitting and honing (I'd like to keep cost down so this is my less preferred option)
2. DIY: hone 0.06" off all bearings (what's the right honing tool / approach here?)
3. Order different bearings (if so, which?)

[Montreal914]

To measure the crank, I would use a micrometer, not a caliper.

You will want to check the cylinder spigot on the case for flatness (they get hammered down). You want to check everything on that case and do the galley plugs. You will want to check your oil pump fit too, and the interference with the cam shaft, but you probably know that and aren't there yet. Be prepared to dry fit open and close that case many times.

With your case torqued on your bearings, check to make sure the case halves are actually closed using a back light. On my 2056 assembly, when I did that step, I could see light between the two halves. The bearing halves were in contact, but not the case.

I doubt you can do the line bore without the proper boring bar and the milling that will allow you this setup.

Obviously many more verification steps to come, but the case, line bore, spigot flatness, spigot distance to center line, etc...

Rod interference check is another important one. Rods to case depending which rod you are using. Also rod to cam.

Van Svenson has nice videos on his build including issues he had. There used to be a website with his step by step process but the link seems to be broken. If someone has it, please share it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

This was it: http://www.ephotomotion.com/914engine/

Share your progress! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)