2270 Build thread, Looking forward to making all of the mistakes! Options

[vjb206]

Hey folks! I've got...

• Case halves from an old 1.7 (cleaned as best I could)
• 2270 crank + P&C kit
• #163/86b Web Cam
• 2.0 heads with 44X36 valves, where I'll be installing dual springs and 38mm exhaust valves
• Upgraded oil pump and other goodies

So my first question for the community has to do with ensuring the rotating mass is spinning freely/correctly…

I started by measuring all of the the main journals on the crank and I got a range from 2.358” - 2.360” (I used a digital caliper and I'm pretty sure I did this correctly).

Then I “dry-fit” Silverline STD/STD main bearings into the case (sans crank), torqued everything down, and got 0.003” in radial play (I used a cylinder bore dial gauge for the first time, and I think I did it correctly).

The spec-sheet says radial play should be between 0.06” - 0.10” (0.03” - 0.09” for #2); and I have 0.003." I'm a MINIMUM of 0.057" off, is that normal? What's my next step?

1. Stop pretending I know what I'm doing and take it to a machinist for test-fitting and honing (I'd like to keep cost down so this is my less preferred option)
2. DIY: hone 0.06" off all bearings (what's the right honing tool / approach here?)
3. Order different bearings (if so, which?)

[technicalninja]

I have maybe a better suggestion for you right now.

Halt your build.

Educate yourself.

Purchase a type 4 rebuild manual. I don't know which one's best but someone else might chime in with good suggestions for "reading material".

Watch ALL of Ian Karrs videos.

I haven't watched them all. I don't need them nearly as much as the next guy due to my experience base but, the ones I have watched are GREAT. Very detailed in a manner that a novice can easily understand.

Watch them TWICE. Subscribe to his channel! Thank him profusely if they help.

I think they will...

Others are going to come up with more suggestions.

They may know better than me! Listen to the suggestions.

PMB sells 2255 for 16K!
Raby sells then for much more.
The parts themselves are really not that expensive. It's the experience that is required to make those not only run but run for years/decades that is the expensive part.

These cannot be assembled like a modern GM LS engine kit.

You are starting out your exploration into ICE engines on an engine that is "finnicky" to build and most of the aftermarket parts require more than just simple assembly.

Right now, I would advise you to become more educated in the basics before spending bucks going to Raby's class.

When I decide I want to tackle an un-known to me skill I'll spend many nights searching the internet and self-educate to a point I can ask specific questions and hopefully I will have figured out which questions are important.

In college, a classmate came up and said, "Boy do I like having classes with you!"
As we were not close, I asked "WTF?"
He said "you will ask the questions that are on everyone's mind, you will pester and make the instructor explain stuff in far greater detail. It's AWESOME!"

To which I reply "I'm paying BIG money to have access to the instructor's brain. It's a bit like prostitution; I get access, they have to answer, and I lose money. You're paying too, but you don't partake..."
His answer "I'd be embarrassed!"
And mine "we are NEVER going to see each other again after college. I don't care what you think about me and, hopefully, you feel exactly the same."

Educate yourself!
Don't ever miss an opportunity for greater knowledge for appearance sake.

If I am allowed to interact with Jake (IE: ask questions) during his class he's going to remember me!

I wish "Vulcan mind meld" wasn't a fantasy...

[Superhawk996]

Purchase a type 4 rebuild manual. I don't know which one's best but someone else might chime in with good suggestions for "reading material".

Tom Wilson book was / is indispensable in the pre-internet era. It was what I learned from prior to my 1st T4 rebuild way back around 1989!!

the